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博柏利變身高科技時尚偶像

博柏利變身高科技時尚偶像

Beth Kowitt 2012-06-07
CEO艾倫茨讓博柏利變成了一臺創(chuàng)新機器。在她的領(lǐng)導(dǎo)下,這個具有156年歷史的品牌走在時尚業(yè)的前沿,瞄準80后這個新興市場,從形象到業(yè)務(wù)都全面邁向了數(shù)字化。

????拿臺北的這次活動來說,它一半是宴會,一半是時裝秀。貝利用龐大的360度多媒體視效展示了模特身著博柏利服裝走秀的過程。另外在線視頻里還有當(dāng)?shù)孛巳雸鲆约百e客們用手機拍照的樣子。背景音樂是英國歌手Marina and the Diamonds的那首《Numb》。

????根據(jù)最新統(tǒng)計,這段視頻在YouTube上獲得了13萬次點擊量——這是很了不起的,因為它從本質(zhì)上講只是一個廣告,人們不必非得看它。在倫敦總部的一次會議上,艾倫茨還表示,不知能否在臺北門店里播放這段視頻。也就是說,能不能把一個現(xiàn)實活動的數(shù)碼版拿回到現(xiàn)實世界里播放?

????博柏利的數(shù)字化舉措已經(jīng)越來越超出了品牌建設(shè)的范疇。用戶可以通過博柏利網(wǎng)站的“真實T臺”(Runway to Reality)收看時裝秀的實況轉(zhuǎn)播,然后訂購他們剛剛在視頻里看到的時裝,然后在六到八周內(nèi)就能收到訂購的衣服。

????消費者并非唯一感受到博柏利的數(shù)字化變革的人。就在貝利還在為時裝秀做準備的時候,博柏利已經(jīng)把一些客服人員送到了倫敦,針對新產(chǎn)品進行培訓(xùn)。他解釋說:“我們的業(yè)務(wù)模式突然開始變化了,因為現(xiàn)在我們得在一款時裝的實物尚未誕生之前就開始對銷售人員進行培訓(xùn)。”

????當(dāng)然,構(gòu)建一種并非完全交易導(dǎo)向型的網(wǎng)絡(luò)廣告具有很大的風(fēng)險。奢侈品營銷和品牌咨詢公司Greenhill+Partners的杜克?格林希爾表示:“在人們看完了網(wǎng)絡(luò)廣告后,他們想的應(yīng)該是:‘我要買那件衣服’,而不是‘這個視頻真酷,不過我不記得那個產(chǎn)品了。’”

????雖然艾倫茨對數(shù)碼如此熱情,不過她從沒忽視讓博柏利得以立足的根本——服裝和配飾。當(dāng)艾倫茨檢查男裝團隊剛剛設(shè)計出的一款短風(fēng)衣式外套時,整個房間里充滿了興奮之情。艾倫茨說:“不管你怎么叫它,你都希望它能像風(fēng)衣一樣經(jīng)典,讓人想去擁有它。”說完她就啟程趕赴下一個會議了。畢竟艾倫茨已經(jīng)證明了一點,就像她的科技伙伴一樣,她知道如何快速行動。

????譯者:樸成奎

????For the Taipei event, which was one part party, one part fashion show, Bailey had built a massive, 360-degree multimedia display that showed a movie of models in Burberry clothing. The online video stitched together footage of the arrival of local celebrities, scenes of guests snapping photographs of the movie on their smartphones, and other clips, all against a stirring soundtrack ("Numb" by Marina and the Diamonds).

????The video had more than 130,000 views on YouTube at last count -- impressive considering it's essentially an ad that people choose to watch. In a meeting back at headquarters Ahrendts wonders if Burberry should play the video inside the Taipei stores. In other words, how could the company bring this digital representation of a physical event back into the physical world?

????The company increasingly is pushing its platforms beyond branding. Burberry's Runway to Reality lets viewers watch a live stream of its shows, order what they just saw, and receive their purchase in six to eight weeks.

????Customers aren't the only ones experiencing changes as a result of Burberry's tech push. While Bailey was preparing the show, the company flew members of its customer service staff to London to train them on the new products. "The business model suddenly starts to change because we now have to train our sales associates on a collection that doesn't physically exist yet," he explains.

????There's a risk, of course, to creating a digital presence that isn't completely transaction-oriented. "You have to walk away from the online experience thinking, 'I need to buy that shirt' -- not 'That's a really cool video, but I don't remember the product,' " says Duke Greenhill of luxury marketing and branding consultancy Greenhill+Partners.

????For all her enthusiasm for digital, Ahrendts never loses sight of the very "analog" products that make Burberry what it is: clothing and accessories. The room practically crackled with excitement as she inspected the short trench coats that the men's wear team had in the works. "Whatever you call it," she said, "you want it to be as memorable as the trench. Just own it." With that she jetted off to her next meeting. After all, Ahrendts has proved that, just like her tech partners, she knows how to move fast.

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