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“男神經濟”爆火:有人帶貨發財,有人拿大錘砸骨

“男神養成”系視頻在歐美火了,專門教男人如何修煉完美下頜線、如何增肌和護膚。

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圖片來源:GETTY IMAGES

高三那年,17歲的迪倫·萊瑟姆被女朋友甩了。此后他憤然決定對自己的外表進行投資。從此,他每天都要泡在健身房里幾個小時,在臉上敷自制的護膚面膜,還給自己燙了一個時興的發型。現在他覺得自己帥氣多了,也自信多了。

不久后,萊瑟姆開始在TikTok上發布自己的型男心得,以激勵有過同樣遭遇的男孩們。他的視頻經常以“這會讓你變丑”、“不要毀了你的皮膚”、“如何讓鼻子顯小”這種話術為題。他發布的這些“型男心得”在網上火得一塌糊涂,而且熱度一直維持到現在。到目前為止,他在TikTok上發步的短視頻已經獲得了近9800萬個贊和10億次瀏覽。萊瑟姆現在已經在帶貨自己的發膠品牌了。他表示,他每個月可以從平臺上獲得6位數的視頻播放和帶貨收入。因此他決定放棄大學學業,轉而做一名全職網紅。

萊瑟姆的爆火,與歐美國家時下流行的一種“男神養成”(looksmaxxing)潮流有關。它大概是一種男版的容貌焦慮,要求男生們要通過嚴格的健身、護膚和護發程序,來讓自己顯得陽剛和有魅力。這類主播最底限的要求,是男生起碼把臉洗干凈。而有些極端的博主會讓男生定期捶打自己的下巴,以誘發輕微骨折,還有的甚至會建議男生整容或者服用類固醇。而在算法的推薦下,這些內容很容易在網上得到大范圍傳播。

《財富》采訪的一些心理學家對這種現象表示了擔憂。他們認為,這些網絡上的建議和批評會給青少年帶來很大的不良影響,使青少年對自己的容貌和吸引力產生負面評價。

紐約西奈山伊坎醫學院希爾德布蘭特實驗室的創始人和負責人湯姆·希爾德布蘭特研究厭食癥已有20年了。他認為:“從心理上看,這種負面評價會損害人的自我感。比如,我得到的負反饋越多,我就會越焦慮,然后我就會用更多的時間、精力甚至是金錢和資源,來放棄我當前的身份,去追求另外一個身份'”。

萊瑟姆也表示,他發布的負面內容的瀏覽量和討論熱度遠遠超過正面內容。所以這位19歲的網紅現在依然會繼續貶低觀眾的長相,這樣才能在TikTok的網店里賣出更多產品。

不過他并不認可批評者的意見,并表示人們應該多聽聽他的建議。他表示,他視頻里的負面內容與正面內容是混雜在一起的。“人們會被負面的東西所吸引,因為很多人都缺乏安全感,所以你首先得用這種方式去吸引他們,然后才能幫助他們。”

這種負反饋循環也刺激了“男神經濟”的繁榮。現在很多跟男顏養成相關的產品都賣得很火,比如有助于鍛煉下頜線條的口香糖,男性護理用品以及男裝等等。

還有一些移動APP稱,他們可以給用戶的長相打分,或者評估他們符不符合“男神”的標準。其中最火的一款APP叫做UMAX,它采用了來自OpenAI 的技術,可以根據男性的氣質、下頜輪廓和顴骨等參數給付費用戶的顏值打分。該APP的創始人、CEO布萊克·安德森今年只有23歲。他表示,盡管這款APP去年12月份才上線,但它的每月訂閱收入已經達到了50萬美元。不過這個數字目前還無法單獨核實。

用戶需要在UMAX上自行上傳臉部照片,它的收費是每周3.99美元。它每周都會用戶的顏值打分,滿分是100分。而且它還會向用戶提供“開始日常護膚”等小貼士來幫助用戶提高顏值分數。雖然該APP稱,只要用戶推薦三位朋友注冊,就可以免首周費用,但在《財富》的測試中,推薦好友注冊并未獲得它聲稱的免費權益。

據安德森稱,UMAX的總下載量已超過700萬次,在蘋果應用商店的生活方式排行榜上排在第36位,排名甚至高于Zillow Rentals和TaskRabbit等生活服務應用。安德森還表示,該應用90%的用戶是 16至45歲之間的男性。

他認為,UMAX之所以受到歡迎,主要歸功于它在社交媒體上的影響力。很多短視頻用戶發視頻談自己的“男神養成”之旅時,經常把UMAX的截圖放在視頻里。他表示,UMAX已經在所有社交媒體平臺上獲得了超過10億次的展示。UMAX的競爭對手LooksMax AI顏值評分器也已躋身生活方式類應用的前100名之列。(但其開發者并未回應《財富》的采訪請求)。

安德森說表示:“總的來看,社交媒體是最偉大的廣告渠道。”他希望打造一個“體現男性自我提升”的品牌。“最熱門的短視頻就是養成系的短視頻。‘我以前長這樣,可有痤瘡,可能長得也不好看,或者也沒有打理自己。這是我現在的樣子!’而UMAX評分有助于量化這種變化。”

至有批評者認為,UMAX可能會使用戶產生消極的自我認知,安德森表示:“我們永遠不希望容貌焦慮影響大家的心理健康……如果我們只是告訴大家百分百地愛自己,你沒有任何需要努力的地方,這也是一種危險的心態……自我完善是極其重要的,它會在人的一生中給你帶來紅利。”

“男神經濟”火爆的另一個原因,是TikTok網店的崛起。

“男神養成系”網紅萊瑟姆表示,對于他的護發品牌來說,TikTok網店是一個讓他“錢賺瘋了”的平臺。“因為你現在可以一邊看視頻,一邊直接購買產品。”他的品牌在TikTok網店上的成功,是讓他決定放棄大學學業,走專業網紅路線的一個重要原因。

TikTok并未回應《財富》的置評請求。

由于TikTok的算法推送機制,希爾德布蘭特對這些負面內容的影響深感憂慮。他認為,這可能會導致人們對男性的外表產生畸形審美。這種現象在上世紀80年代施瓦辛格剛剛走紅的時候就出現了。隨著社交媒體的興起,這種畸形審美變得更加隱蔽化。人們可能會花大量時間在網上觀看或者消費與美容和健身有關的內容。當然從表面看來,現在所有人每天都會刷上幾個小時的手機。

對于UMAX以及萊瑟姆的護發產品的火爆,希爾德布蘭特并未感到意外。因為“男神經濟”利用了男性的容貌焦慮,而資本已經靠刺激女性的容貌焦慮賺了幾萬億美元的化妝品和保健品了。“這些主播和產品的生產廠家發現,男性和女性一樣容易受到負反饋的影響……只要你能讓人對自己的身份產生不安全感,他們就愿意為此一擲千金,來尋求解決方案。”

雖然TikTok已經對網上商城里的減肥藥問題進行了打擊,但心理學家表示,TikTok的網上商城里仍然有一些有問題的內容存在。如果你在TikTok網上商城里搜索“looksmax”,就會出現一條信息寫著“你比你的體重更重要”。這條信息還配有一幅畫面,畫中是一個卡通小人抱著一顆愛心,以及一個點擊選項,上面寫著:“如果你或你認識的人有關于身材、包含或者運動方面的問題,請注意,你是可以獲得幫助的,你不是一個人在戰斗。”然后,用戶就可以通過鏈接,進入TikTok自己的進食障礙資源中心和一個域名為“nationaleatingdisorders.org”的網站。但如果你不點擊,而是滾動頁面的話,這條信息就會消失。

但是Meta旗下的Instagram和Facebook、谷歌旗下的YouTube,以及Snapchat等熱門社交應用則無此類推廣消息。

CNN和參議員理查德·布盧門撒爾都曾于2021年指出,Instagram存在向青少年宣傳與厭食癥有關的內容的問題,它專門有一個頁面告訴用戶,出現這種問題后應該找朋友尋求幫助。Meta公司的發言人拒絕就此事發表評論,不過他向《財富》強調了Meta在自殺、自殘和厭食等問題上的政策。

Meta表示,該公司表示會刪除平臺上“任何有關鼓勵自殺、自殘或厭食的內容”,但它“允許人們討論這些話題,因為我們希望我們的服務成為人們交流經驗、提高對這些問題的認識并且相互幫助的空間。”

Meta表示,它已經在自殺、自殘、厭食以及身體形象相關的搜索結果頁中添加了彈出窗口,為用戶提供與相關組織聯系的建議和方法,但在與“男神養成”“男顏”相關的搜索中卻沒有這樣的警告。《財富》在Instagram上搜索關鍵詞“looksmax”,發現一段視頻,視頻博主擁有好看的下巴,但他聲稱,他是通過用錘子敲打自己的臉部,才把下巴弄成這個樣子的(這種做法被稱為 “砸骨”)。這個博主還在視頻中向用戶做了示范,不過同時他也警告了這么做的危險性。

Snapchat也不向用戶提供有關厭食癥的信息。Snapchat的發言人拒絕圍繞本文內容發表評論。他建議《財富》查閱關于其算法推薦機制的的帖子。他還指出,Snapcha禁止宣傳鼓吹自殘、自殺和厭食的內容。盡管有這樣的規定,《財富》還是在Snapchat的#looksmax 標簽下發現了一些宣傳自殘和暴力的帖子。其中一段視頻以男神范兒的自拍開頭,后面出現“當她說,我要跟我的新朋友開派對”時,畫面突然變成了一連串的人拿著突擊步槍開火的鏡頭。該視頻的標題是“我要去參加派對”。

針對YouTube上的“男神養成”相關內容,YouTube的一位發言人告訴《財富》:“YouTube針對面向低齡和青少年觀眾制定了額外的保障機制,而且這些措施是在咨詢兒童發展專家后制定的”。該發言人還向我們分享了相關保障措施的鏈接,并表示YouTube會“限制重復推薦關于攀比身體特征、描述理想化的健身水平或者理想體重等相關內容”,并指出,YouTube有相關政策來刪除“易被模仿的”厭食內容。

上面提到的這幾家社交媒體公司,因其推薦算法和功能容易讓人上癮,進而引發青少年心理健康危機,而已經受到了聯邦和州兩級政府的嚴格審查。這些平臺最被詬病的原因之一,就是它們容易導致用戶產生畸形審美,尤其是對年輕女性的身體產生畸形審美。

但是隨著“男神養成”的走紅,年輕男性用戶也很有可能受到畸形審美的負面影響。

塞拉·列維利是紐約市一位治療飲食失調和飲食紊亂問題的臨床心理學家。在她2007年剛開始執業時,她的患者大多是女性,包括年輕女孩。但是在過去10年里,隨著社交媒體的興起,她的病人已經是男女各占一半。她表示:“對于男性來說,現在的社會變得越來越可怕了,就像長期以來的女性一樣。”

而一些全國性的報告也表明,隨著社交媒體的興起,美國男性患飲食失調癥的比例有所增加。

紐約心理學家莎拉·戴維斯長期研究兒童飲食失調問題。她注意到,一些患者在治療過程中,會進行用舌頭舔上牙關的練習,據他們說,這樣可以練出完美的下頜線。戴維斯把這個問題歸咎于社交媒體,因為她的病人“越來越年輕了”,甚至最小的病人只有9歲。

戴維斯表示:“我們都想被愛、被接受。所以人們會想,如果我長成某種樣子就能被愛、被接受,那么我就應該砸錢干這件事。”(財富中文網)

譯者:樸成奎

高三那年,17歲的迪倫·萊瑟姆被女朋友甩了。此后他憤然決定對自己的外表進行投資。從此,他每天都要泡在健身房里幾個小時,在臉上敷自制的護膚面膜,還給自己燙了一個時興的發型。現在他覺得自己帥氣多了,也自信多了。

不久后,萊瑟姆開始在TikTok上發布自己的型男心得,以激勵有過同樣遭遇的男孩們。他的視頻經常以“這會讓你變丑”、“不要毀了你的皮膚”、“如何讓鼻子顯小”這種話術為題。他發布的這些“型男心得”在網上火得一塌糊涂,而且熱度一直維持到現在。到目前為止,他在TikTok上發步的短視頻已經獲得了近9800萬個贊和10億次瀏覽。萊瑟姆現在已經在帶貨自己的發膠品牌了。他表示,他每個月可以從平臺上獲得6位數的視頻播放和帶貨收入。因此他決定放棄大學學業,轉而做一名全職網紅。

萊瑟姆的爆火,與歐美國家時下流行的一種“男神養成”(looksmaxxing)潮流有關。它大概是一種男版的容貌焦慮,要求男生們要通過嚴格的健身、護膚和護發程序,來讓自己顯得陽剛和有魅力。這類主播最底限的要求,是男生起碼把臉洗干凈。而有些極端的博主會讓男生定期捶打自己的下巴,以誘發輕微骨折,還有的甚至會建議男生整容或者服用類固醇。而在算法的推薦下,這些內容很容易在網上得到大范圍傳播。

《財富》采訪的一些心理學家對這種現象表示了擔憂。他們認為,這些網絡上的建議和批評會給青少年帶來很大的不良影響,使青少年對自己的容貌和吸引力產生負面評價。

紐約西奈山伊坎醫學院希爾德布蘭特實驗室的創始人和負責人湯姆·希爾德布蘭特研究厭食癥已有20年了。他認為:“從心理上看,這種負面評價會損害人的自我感。比如,我得到的負反饋越多,我就會越焦慮,然后我就會用更多的時間、精力甚至是金錢和資源,來放棄我當前的身份,去追求另外一個身份'”。

萊瑟姆也表示,他發布的負面內容的瀏覽量和討論熱度遠遠超過正面內容。所以這位19歲的網紅現在依然會繼續貶低觀眾的長相,這樣才能在TikTok的網店里賣出更多產品。

不過他并不認可批評者的意見,并表示人們應該多聽聽他的建議。他表示,他視頻里的負面內容與正面內容是混雜在一起的。“人們會被負面的東西所吸引,因為很多人都缺乏安全感,所以你首先得用這種方式去吸引他們,然后才能幫助他們。”

這種負反饋循環也刺激了“男神經濟”的繁榮。現在很多跟男顏養成相關的產品都賣得很火,比如有助于鍛煉下頜線條的口香糖,男性護理用品以及男裝等等。

還有一些移動APP稱,他們可以給用戶的長相打分,或者評估他們符不符合“男神”的標準。其中最火的一款APP叫做UMAX,它采用了來自OpenAI 的技術,可以根據男性的氣質、下頜輪廓和顴骨等參數給付費用戶的顏值打分。該APP的創始人、CEO布萊克·安德森今年只有23歲。他表示,盡管這款APP去年12月份才上線,但它的每月訂閱收入已經達到了50萬美元。不過這個數字目前還無法單獨核實。

用戶需要在UMAX上自行上傳臉部照片,它的收費是每周3.99美元。它每周都會用戶的顏值打分,滿分是100分。而且它還會向用戶提供“開始日常護膚”等小貼士來幫助用戶提高顏值分數。雖然該APP稱,只要用戶推薦三位朋友注冊,就可以免首周費用,但在《財富》的測試中,推薦好友注冊并未獲得它聲稱的免費權益。

據安德森稱,UMAX的總下載量已超過700萬次,在蘋果應用商店的生活方式排行榜上排在第36位,排名甚至高于Zillow Rentals和TaskRabbit等生活服務應用。安德森還表示,該應用90%的用戶是 16至45歲之間的男性。

他認為,UMAX之所以受到歡迎,主要歸功于它在社交媒體上的影響力。很多短視頻用戶發視頻談自己的“男神養成”之旅時,經常把UMAX的截圖放在視頻里。他表示,UMAX已經在所有社交媒體平臺上獲得了超過10億次的展示。UMAX的競爭對手LooksMax AI顏值評分器也已躋身生活方式類應用的前100名之列。(但其開發者并未回應《財富》的采訪請求)。

安德森說表示:“總的來看,社交媒體是最偉大的廣告渠道。”他希望打造一個“體現男性自我提升”的品牌。“最熱門的短視頻就是養成系的短視頻。‘我以前長這樣,可有痤瘡,可能長得也不好看,或者也沒有打理自己。這是我現在的樣子!’而UMAX評分有助于量化這種變化。”

至有批評者認為,UMAX可能會使用戶產生消極的自我認知,安德森表示:“我們永遠不希望容貌焦慮影響大家的心理健康……如果我們只是告訴大家百分百地愛自己,你沒有任何需要努力的地方,這也是一種危險的心態……自我完善是極其重要的,它會在人的一生中給你帶來紅利。”

“男神經濟”火爆的另一個原因,是TikTok網店的崛起。

“男神養成系”網紅萊瑟姆表示,對于他的護發品牌來說,TikTok網店是一個讓他“錢賺瘋了”的平臺。“因為你現在可以一邊看視頻,一邊直接購買產品。”他的品牌在TikTok網店上的成功,是讓他決定放棄大學學業,走專業網紅路線的一個重要原因。

TikTok并未回應《財富》的置評請求。

由于TikTok的算法推送機制,希爾德布蘭特對這些負面內容的影響深感憂慮。他認為,這可能會導致人們對男性的外表產生畸形審美。這種現象在上世紀80年代施瓦辛格剛剛走紅的時候就出現了。隨著社交媒體的興起,這種畸形審美變得更加隱蔽化。人們可能會花大量時間在網上觀看或者消費與美容和健身有關的內容。當然從表面看來,現在所有人每天都會刷上幾個小時的手機。

對于UMAX以及萊瑟姆的護發產品的火爆,希爾德布蘭特并未感到意外。因為“男神經濟”利用了男性的容貌焦慮,而資本已經靠刺激女性的容貌焦慮賺了幾萬億美元的化妝品和保健品了。“這些主播和產品的生產廠家發現,男性和女性一樣容易受到負反饋的影響……只要你能讓人對自己的身份產生不安全感,他們就愿意為此一擲千金,來尋求解決方案。”

雖然TikTok已經對網上商城里的減肥藥問題進行了打擊,但心理學家表示,TikTok的網上商城里仍然有一些有問題的內容存在。如果你在TikTok網上商城里搜索“looksmax”,就會出現一條信息寫著“你比你的體重更重要”。這條信息還配有一幅畫面,畫中是一個卡通小人抱著一顆愛心,以及一個點擊選項,上面寫著:“如果你或你認識的人有關于身材、包含或者運動方面的問題,請注意,你是可以獲得幫助的,你不是一個人在戰斗。”然后,用戶就可以通過鏈接,進入TikTok自己的進食障礙資源中心和一個域名為“nationaleatingdisorders.org”的網站。但如果你不點擊,而是滾動頁面的話,這條信息就會消失。

但是Meta旗下的Instagram和Facebook、谷歌旗下的YouTube,以及Snapchat等熱門社交應用則無此類推廣消息。

CNN和參議員理查德·布盧門撒爾都曾于2021年指出,Instagram存在向青少年宣傳與厭食癥有關的內容的問題,它專門有一個頁面告訴用戶,出現這種問題后應該找朋友尋求幫助。Meta公司的發言人拒絕就此事發表評論,不過他向《財富》強調了Meta在自殺、自殘和厭食等問題上的政策。

Meta表示,該公司表示會刪除平臺上“任何有關鼓勵自殺、自殘或厭食的內容”,但它“允許人們討論這些話題,因為我們希望我們的服務成為人們交流經驗、提高對這些問題的認識并且相互幫助的空間。”

Meta表示,它已經在自殺、自殘、厭食以及身體形象相關的搜索結果頁中添加了彈出窗口,為用戶提供與相關組織聯系的建議和方法,但在與“男神養成”“男顏”相關的搜索中卻沒有這樣的警告。《財富》在Instagram上搜索關鍵詞“looksmax”,發現一段視頻,視頻博主擁有好看的下巴,但他聲稱,他是通過用錘子敲打自己的臉部,才把下巴弄成這個樣子的(這種做法被稱為 “砸骨”)。這個博主還在視頻中向用戶做了示范,不過同時他也警告了這么做的危險性。

Snapchat也不向用戶提供有關厭食癥的信息。Snapchat的發言人拒絕圍繞本文內容發表評論。他建議《財富》查閱關于其算法推薦機制的的帖子。他還指出,Snapcha禁止宣傳鼓吹自殘、自殺和厭食的內容。盡管有這樣的規定,《財富》還是在Snapchat的#looksmax 標簽下發現了一些宣傳自殘和暴力的帖子。其中一段視頻以男神范兒的自拍開頭,后面出現“當她說,我要跟我的新朋友開派對”時,畫面突然變成了一連串的人拿著突擊步槍開火的鏡頭。該視頻的標題是“我要去參加派對”。

針對YouTube上的“男神養成”相關內容,YouTube的一位發言人告訴《財富》:“YouTube針對面向低齡和青少年觀眾制定了額外的保障機制,而且這些措施是在咨詢兒童發展專家后制定的”。該發言人還向我們分享了相關保障措施的鏈接,并表示YouTube會“限制重復推薦關于攀比身體特征、描述理想化的健身水平或者理想體重等相關內容”,并指出,YouTube有相關政策來刪除“易被模仿的”厭食內容。

上面提到的這幾家社交媒體公司,因其推薦算法和功能容易讓人上癮,進而引發青少年心理健康危機,而已經受到了聯邦和州兩級政府的嚴格審查。這些平臺最被詬病的原因之一,就是它們容易導致用戶產生畸形審美,尤其是對年輕女性的身體產生畸形審美。

但是隨著“男神養成”的走紅,年輕男性用戶也很有可能受到畸形審美的負面影響。

塞拉·列維利是紐約市一位治療飲食失調和飲食紊亂問題的臨床心理學家。在她2007年剛開始執業時,她的患者大多是女性,包括年輕女孩。但是在過去10年里,隨著社交媒體的興起,她的病人已經是男女各占一半。她表示:“對于男性來說,現在的社會變得越來越可怕了,就像長期以來的女性一樣。”

而一些全國性的報告也表明,隨著社交媒體的興起,美國男性患飲食失調癥的比例有所增加。

紐約心理學家莎拉·戴維斯長期研究兒童飲食失調問題。她注意到,一些患者在治療過程中,會進行用舌頭舔上牙關的練習,據他們說,這樣可以練出完美的下頜線。戴維斯把這個問題歸咎于社交媒體,因為她的病人“越來越年輕了”,甚至最小的病人只有9歲。

戴維斯表示:“我們都想被愛、被接受。所以人們會想,如果我長成某種樣子就能被愛、被接受,那么我就應該砸錢干這件事。”(財富中文網)

譯者:樸成奎

After Dillon Latham’s girlfriend dumped him during their junior year of high school, the then-17-year-old decided to invest in his appearance. He began spending hours daily in the gym, applying homemade skincare concoctions to his face like beef tallow moisturizer, and permed his hair to give it a tousled mop look. He says he felt and looked better.

Soon, Latham started posting tips on TikTok to inspire teen boys in similar situations. His videos are captioned with language like “this is making you ugly,” “stop ruining your skin,” and “get a smaller nose.” The makeover advice went, and continues to go, viral. To date, his TikTok clips have nearly 98 million likes and 1 billion views across social media. Latham, who is now selling his own brand of hairspray, says he’s making six-figures in revenue monthly from sales and social media, leading him to skip college and be a full-time influencer.

Latham’s videos are part of a trend called “looksmaxxing” that capitalizes on mostly boys’ insecurities, and tells them they can become attractive and masculine by toning their faces and bodies via rigid fitness, skincare, and hair care routines. In its mildest form, looksmax social media creators tell teen boys to wash their faces; in its most extreme, they tell boys to regularly pummel their jaws to induce micro fractures, get surgery, and take steroids. Social media algorithms tend to amplify this content.

Psychologists interviewed by Fortune expressed concern about the trend. They assailed the potentially devastating effects of the online advice and criticism that makes those seeking it feel inadequate and unattractive.

“Psychologically, it’s essentially an erosion of the sense of self,” says Tom Hildebrandt, a clinical psychologist who has studied eating disorders for 20 years as the chief and founder of the Hildebrandt Laboratory at the Icahn School of Medicine at Mount Sinai, in New York City. “It’s like, ‘The more I get feedback that I’m not good enough, the more I consume it. And then, I trade my attention, my time and sometimes my money and resources to give up my current identity in pursuit of this other one.’”

Latham, too, says the negative content he posts attracts far more views and engagement than positive stuff. So the now 19-year-old continues to insult the appearances of his viewers, and in turn, sell more products, mostly via TikTok Shop.

He dismisses the critics, saying they should listen more closely to his advice. The negativity in his videos is mixed with positive messages, he argues. “People are really attracted to negative things because so many guys are insecure—so you pull them in with that in a way, and then try to help them.”

This negative feedback loop has also spurred a burgeoning looksmaxxing economy, including chewing gum meant to help with jaw exercises, personal care products, and clothing.

Meanwhile, a number of apps claim to evaluate the looks of users and their success in following the looksmaxxing message. The most popular app is UMAX – Become Hot. Powered partly by OpenAI’s technology, UMAX rates paying users’ faces on masculinity, their jawlines, and cheekbones, among other attributes. Though it launched in December, the app is already raking in about $500,000 in subscription revenue monthly, according to Blake Anderson, the app’s 23-year-old founder and CEO. The amount could not be independently verified.

UMAX, which relies on users uploading headshot photos, costs $3.99 weekly. It scores users’ faces each week on a scale up to 100, and gives tips like “start a skincare routine” to increase their scores. Though the app says users can forgo the first weekly fee if they refer three friends, this feature didn’t work in Fortune’s test of the app.

UMAX has over 7 million total downloads, according to Anderson, and climbed to number 36 in the Apple App Store’s Lifestyle chart, which ranks apps by downloads, app usage and velocity of downloads. It ranked higher than the apps of Zillow Rentals and handyman service TaskRabbit. Anderson says 90% of users are males aged 16 to 45.

He credits UMAX’s popularity to its social media presence, helped by users who often show screenshots of UMAX’s app as a backdrop in their own social media videos in which they discuss their looksmaxxing journeys. He says UMAX has garnered over 1 billion impressions across all social media platforms. A UMAX competitor, LooksMax AI – Face Style Rater, is also among the top 100 lifestyle apps. (Its developer did not respond to Fortune’s interview request.)

“Social media, as a whole, is the greatest advertising channel to exist,” says Anderson, who wants to build a brand that “embodies male self improvement.” “The videos that tend to do really well are glow up videos: ‘This is me before—maybe I had acne or wasn’t as good looking, wasn’t taking care of myself—and now, this is me after.’ UMAX scores help to quantify that change.’”

In response to critics who say that UMAX may contribute to users’ negative self-perception, Anderson says: “We never want somebody to feel insecure to the point that it causes anxiety or significantly impacts their mental health…If we just tell everyone to just love who you are 100% and there’s never anything that needs any work—I think that’s a dangerous mindset…self-improvement is extremely important and pays dividends over the course of one’s life.”

Another reason for the growth of the looksmaxxing economy is TikTok Shop.

Looksmax influencer Latham calls it an “insanely profitable” platform for his haircare brand because “you can literally just buy a product on the same screen that you watch the video.” He says the success of his brand on TikTok Shop is a reason he decided to forgo college to focus on his social media creator career.

TikTok did not respond to Fortune’s request for comment.

Mount Sinai’s Hildebrandt is deeply worried about the potentially devastating effects of negative content delivered through an algorithm, as he believes this could cause widespread and often-undetected male body dysmorphia. This phenomenon, he says, gained traction during Arnold Schwarzenegger’s muscular rise to fame in the 1980s. With the rise of social media, the problem has been supercharged and harder to detect. Now, the disorder is often characterized by people spending excessive time consuming and thinking about online beauty and wellness content. On the surface, it’s largely indistinguishable from today’s norm of people scrolling on their phones for hours on end.

Hildebrandt is unsurprised that UMAX’s app and Latham’s hair care products have caught on. He believes the looksmaxxing economy takes advantage of men’s insecurities using methods that have minted female-focused cosmetics and wellness brands trillions of dollars. “The producers of [looksmaxxing] content and products are figuring out that men are just as vulnerable as women to that negative feedback…if you make anyone feel insecure about their identities, they are willing to throw money after a solution for that.”

TikTok has cracked down on weight loss content, though psychologists say problematic content very much still exists. A search for “looksmax” on the platform returns a banner saying “you are more than your weight.” The message is accompanied by a cartoon character hugging a heart and an option to click on a message that says: “If you or someone you know has questions about body image, food, or exercise — it is important to know that help is out there and you are not alone.” Users can follow links to TikTok’s own eating disorder resource center and nationaleatingdisorders.org. But once users begin to scroll, the banner disappears.

Meta-owned Instagram and Facebook, Google’s YouTube, and Snapchat have no such warnings on looksmaxxing content.

Instagram, which CNN and Sen. Richard Blumenthal (D-Conn.) said in 2021 promoted eating disorder content to teens, has a page about eating disorders that focuses on how users should approach friends about the problem. Facebook has a similar page. A Meta spokesperson declined to comment for this story, but pointed Fortune to its policy on suicide, self-injury and eating disorders.

Though the company says it removes “any content that encourages suicide, self-injury or eating disorders,” it allows “people to discuss these topics because we want our services to be a space where people can share their experiences, raise awareness about these issues, and seek support from one another.”

Meta says that it has added popup on searches related to suicide, self-harm, eating disorders or body image issues that gives users tips and ways to connect with relevant organizations, but it has no such warning on looksmax-related searches. When Fortune searched for “looksmax” on Instagram, it found a video of a user with a chiseled jaw who claimed to have obtained it by hitting his face with a hammer (a practice known as “bone smashing”). The video shows users how to do it, while warning of its dangers.

Snapchat provides users with no information about eating disorders. A spokesperson for the platform declined to comment for this article, directing Fortune to its guidelines about the kinds of posts its algorithm recommends, noting the company prohibits the promotion of self-injury, suicide and disordered eating content. Despite the rules, under the #looksmax hashtag on Snapchat, Fortune found a number of posts that promote self-harm and violence. One video that begins with a selfie video of looksmaxxer is captioned “when she says I’m going to party with my new friends,” followed by a sequence of people firing assault rifles. A caption on the clip then said “me after pulling up to that party.”

In response to looksmaxxing content on YouTube, a spokesperson for the platform told Fortune: “YouTube has extra safeguards in place for videos recommended to teens and younger viewers, developed in consultation with child development experts.” The spokesperson, who share a link to the safeguards, says the company “limits repeated recommendations of content that compares physical features and idealizes specific fitness levels or body weights over others,” noting it has policies to remove content about disordered eating behaviors that “can be easily imitated.”

Social media companies are already facing scrutiny from federal and state officials for allegedly causing a youth mental health crisis with their addictive algorithms and features. A key accusation in these lawsuits and initiatives is that social media platforms incite body dysmorphia in users, especially young females.

But looksmaxxing may be evidence that young male users are just as affected by body dysmorphia.

Sera Levelle, a clinical psychologist who treats eating disorders and disordered eating in New York City, says she now has an even split of male and female patients. When she started her practice in 2007, it was mostly women and girls. Levelle says that over the last 10 years—concurrent with the rise of social media—the gender makeup of her patients has reached parity. “Society is now getting equally horrible for men as it has been for women for a long time,” says Levelle.

Levelle’s anecdote is consistent with national reports that show that diagnosed male eating disorders have increased with social media’s rise.

Sarah Davis, also a psychologist in New York who is focused on children’s eating disorders, notes that a few patients have engaged in a looksmaxxing exercise during therapy sessions called mewing, a belief that touching one’s tongue to top of mouth through clenched teeth can spur a defined jawline. She blames social media as her patients get “younger and younger,” with the youngest being nine years old.

“We all want to be loved and accepted,” says Davis. “People think, ‘If I look a certain way, and I can throw money at that [to be loved and accepted,] then I’ll do it.”

財富中文網所刊載內容之知識產權為財富媒體知識產權有限公司及/或相關權利人專屬所有或持有。未經許可,禁止進行轉載、摘編、復制及建立鏡像等任何使用。
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