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植物基肉的熱潮正在消退,但它仍然是未來(lái)的趨勢(shì)

BRIAN KATEMAN
2022-04-13

如果植物基肉類(lèi)行業(yè)真的想滿(mǎn)足消費(fèi)者對(duì)更健康、更環(huán)保的飲食的興趣,他們必須找到一種方法來(lái)改進(jìn)產(chǎn)品并降低價(jià)格。

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一個(gè)令人難以接受的事實(shí):想少吃肉的人可能不愿意為假肉支付溢價(jià)。圖片來(lái)源:JEFFGRITCHEN—MEDIANEWS GROUP - ORANGE COUNTY REGISTER/GETTY IMAGES

感覺(jué)幾乎每隔一天,一個(gè)關(guān)于植物蛋白的新故事就會(huì)出現(xiàn)在商業(yè)版面上,很引人注目。無(wú)論是大型快餐連鎖店或超市連鎖店與素食肉類(lèi)品牌合作,還是名人或商業(yè)領(lǐng)袖向植物基食品初創(chuàng)公司投入巨資,或者是老牌肉類(lèi)或乳制品公司推出新的植物基產(chǎn)品,這一行業(yè)的熱潮似乎一直很穩(wěn)定。

然而,在一些市場(chǎng)觀察人士中,有傳言稱(chēng)植物基肉可能已經(jīng)達(dá)到頂峰。2021年的市場(chǎng)數(shù)據(jù)顯示,植物基肉收入出現(xiàn)了相當(dāng)驚人的下降——比上一年下降了15%。

快餐菜單上出現(xiàn)無(wú)肉漢堡、雞塊和三明治后,它們很快就開(kāi)始消失。批評(píng)者指出,令人失望的銷(xiāo)售數(shù)字導(dǎo)致一些連鎖餐廳減少植物基肉菜肴的廣告或?qū)⑵渫耆珡牟藛沃袆h除。現(xiàn)在最初的炒作正在消退,看起來(lái)消費(fèi)者可能根本就對(duì)植物基肉不感興趣。

超越肉類(lèi)(Beyond Meat)等行業(yè)領(lǐng)導(dǎo)者提出了大量可能出現(xiàn)的解釋?zhuān)ㄐ鹿诜窝滓咔闇p輕和對(duì)健康飲食的興趣下降。但這些假設(shè)可能與現(xiàn)實(shí)不符。英國(guó)《金融時(shí)報(bào)》(Financial Times)援引最近對(duì)美國(guó)成年人的一項(xiàng)調(diào)查發(fā)現(xiàn),39%的受訪(fǎng)者希望減少肉類(lèi)消費(fèi)——但同一群體中有40%的人表示目前或?qū)?lái)對(duì)食用植物基肉不感興趣。

對(duì)于這個(gè)行業(yè)來(lái)說(shuō),事實(shí)可能有點(diǎn)難以接受:并不是人們對(duì)更健康、更環(huán)保的食品不感興趣。只是目前,他們對(duì)植物基肉不感興趣。

在解釋這些下降的銷(xiāo)售數(shù)字時(shí),研究人員和其他專(zhuān)家提出了各種各樣的消費(fèi)者投訴。是的,植物基漢堡肉餅的膽固醇可能為零,飽和脂肪也比牛肉餅低,但配料表中充滿(mǎn)了油和實(shí)驗(yàn)室開(kāi)發(fā)的蛋白質(zhì)提取物,這讓注重養(yǎng)生和“清潔飲食”人群感到害怕。

對(duì)于其他人來(lái)說(shuō),主要問(wèn)題是口味:他們嘗試過(guò)的產(chǎn)品還不夠好。一般來(lái)說(shuō),植物基食品價(jià)格仍高于類(lèi)似的肉類(lèi)產(chǎn)品,這對(duì)植物基食品沒(méi)有任何好處。

無(wú)論他們的志向多么偉大,人們都不會(huì)花更多的錢(qián)去購(gòu)買(mǎi)他們認(rèn)為低劣的產(chǎn)品。如果植物基肉類(lèi)行業(yè)真的想滿(mǎn)足消費(fèi)者對(duì)更健康、更環(huán)保的飲食的興趣,那就沒(méi)有其他辦法了:他們必須找到一種方法來(lái)改進(jìn)產(chǎn)品并降低價(jià)格。

“改進(jìn)”的產(chǎn)品可能是什么樣子將取決于你問(wèn)誰(shuí)。對(duì)于一些人來(lái)說(shuō),他們希望配料表更精簡(jiǎn)、不熟悉的配料成分更少。對(duì)于其他人來(lái)說(shuō),可以說(shuō)是大多數(shù)人,他們希望產(chǎn)品更多汁、更肥美、更咸,總體上與傳統(tǒng)肉類(lèi)更相似。

無(wú)論消費(fèi)者優(yōu)先考慮什么,高昂的價(jià)格都會(huì)勸退他們,讓他們難以將植物基肉納入日常飲食。隨著公司不斷調(diào)整他們的產(chǎn)品,他們還必須找到降低成本的方法,也許是通過(guò)擴(kuò)大生產(chǎn)規(guī)模。

另一種解釋令人擔(dān)憂(yōu)的銷(xiāo)售數(shù)字的方式是,它們與產(chǎn)品本身無(wú)關(guān):人們只是對(duì)植物基肉不感興趣。

既然最初的炒作已經(jīng)過(guò)去,無(wú)論純素漢堡和雞塊多么美味或價(jià)格實(shí)惠,消費(fèi)者對(duì)它們的需求并不大。雖然這可能看起來(lái)是一個(gè)不可逾越的障礙,但現(xiàn)在我們生活中處處可見(jiàn)的許多產(chǎn)品都不是消費(fèi)者真正需要的。人造需求是一種工具,企業(yè)使用這種工具激起消費(fèi)者對(duì)曾經(jīng)幾乎沒(méi)有任何大眾吸引力的東西的購(gòu)買(mǎi)欲。

其中一個(gè)例子就是瓶裝水。環(huán)保主義者安妮·倫納德(Annie Leonard)等消費(fèi)主義批評(píng)者認(rèn)為,飲料公司通過(guò)說(shuō)服力營(yíng)銷(xiāo)說(shuō)服消費(fèi)者購(gòu)買(mǎi)瓶裝水,這些水通常不會(huì)比他們廚房水槽里的水更好或更清潔。

我們有機(jī)會(huì)使用相同的策略,但是是為了更美好的明天。瓶裝水的爆炸式增長(zhǎng)極大地加劇了塑料垃圾問(wèn)題,同時(shí)它只是提供了大多數(shù)消費(fèi)者家中本來(lái)就有的東西。另一方面,植物基肉實(shí)際上可以改變世界——無(wú)論購(gòu)物者目前是否想要它。

成功的公司會(huì)走在人們的需求前面,用消費(fèi)者自己都不會(huì)想到的創(chuàng)新產(chǎn)品來(lái)滿(mǎn)足他們的價(jià)值取向。

當(dāng)今市場(chǎng)上的很多植物基肉制品在消費(fèi)者眼中存在著明顯的缺陷,但其背后的核心理念仍然是有現(xiàn)實(shí)意義的。

今天,有些人希望少吃肉,減少碳足跡,并改善膽固醇和血壓等健康指標(biāo)。盡管我們所知道的植物基肉在某些領(lǐng)域仍有待改進(jìn),但它們?nèi)匀豢梢越鉀Q工業(yè)化畜牧業(yè)的主要環(huán)境和道德問(wèn)題。即使我們目前擁有的特定產(chǎn)品不能完全滿(mǎn)足消費(fèi)者的需求,它們的核心價(jià)值仍然是有現(xiàn)實(shí)意義的,在地球的未來(lái)懸而未定的情況下,口味和價(jià)格只需簡(jiǎn)單研發(fā)就能解決。(財(cái)富中文網(wǎng))

布萊恩·卡特曼(Brian Kateman)是忌肉主義者基金會(huì)(Reducetarian Foundation)的聯(lián)合創(chuàng)始人兼總裁。該基金會(huì)是一個(gè)非營(yíng)利組織,致力于減少肉、蛋和奶制品的消費(fèi),以創(chuàng)造一個(gè)健康、可持續(xù)和富有同情心的世界。布萊恩·卡特曼是《忌肉主義者如何做出妥協(xié)》(Meat Me Halfway)的作者——受到同名紀(jì)錄片的啟發(fā),并且是《忌肉主義者食譜》(The Reducetarian Cookbook)和《忌肉主義者解決方案》(The Reducetarian Solution)的編輯。

感覺(jué)幾乎每隔一天,一個(gè)關(guān)于植物蛋白的新故事就會(huì)出現(xiàn)在商業(yè)版面上,很引人注目。無(wú)論是大型快餐連鎖店或超市連鎖店與素食肉類(lèi)品牌合作,還是名人或商業(yè)領(lǐng)袖向植物基食品初創(chuàng)公司投入巨資,或者是老牌肉類(lèi)或乳制品公司推出新的植物基產(chǎn)品,這一行業(yè)的熱潮似乎一直很穩(wěn)定。

然而,在一些市場(chǎng)觀察人士中,有傳言稱(chēng)植物基肉可能已經(jīng)達(dá)到頂峰。2021年的市場(chǎng)數(shù)據(jù)顯示,植物基肉收入出現(xiàn)了相當(dāng)驚人的下降——比上一年下降了15%。

快餐菜單上出現(xiàn)無(wú)肉漢堡、雞塊和三明治后,它們很快就開(kāi)始消失。批評(píng)者指出,令人失望的銷(xiāo)售數(shù)字導(dǎo)致一些連鎖餐廳減少植物基肉菜肴的廣告或?qū)⑵渫耆珡牟藛沃袆h除。現(xiàn)在最初的炒作正在消退,看起來(lái)消費(fèi)者可能根本就對(duì)植物基肉不感興趣。

超越肉類(lèi)(Beyond Meat)等行業(yè)領(lǐng)導(dǎo)者提出了大量可能出現(xiàn)的解釋?zhuān)ㄐ鹿诜窝滓咔闇p輕和對(duì)健康飲食的興趣下降。但這些假設(shè)可能與現(xiàn)實(shí)不符。英國(guó)《金融時(shí)報(bào)》(Financial Times)援引最近對(duì)美國(guó)成年人的一項(xiàng)調(diào)查發(fā)現(xiàn),39%的受訪(fǎng)者希望減少肉類(lèi)消費(fèi)——但同一群體中有40%的人表示目前或?qū)?lái)對(duì)食用植物基肉不感興趣。

對(duì)于這個(gè)行業(yè)來(lái)說(shuō),事實(shí)可能有點(diǎn)難以接受:并不是人們對(duì)更健康、更環(huán)保的食品不感興趣。只是目前,他們對(duì)植物基肉不感興趣。

在解釋這些下降的銷(xiāo)售數(shù)字時(shí),研究人員和其他專(zhuān)家提出了各種各樣的消費(fèi)者投訴。是的,植物基漢堡肉餅的膽固醇可能為零,飽和脂肪也比牛肉餅低,但配料表中充滿(mǎn)了油和實(shí)驗(yàn)室開(kāi)發(fā)的蛋白質(zhì)提取物,這讓注重養(yǎng)生和“清潔飲食”人群感到害怕。

對(duì)于其他人來(lái)說(shuō),主要問(wèn)題是口味:他們嘗試過(guò)的產(chǎn)品還不夠好。一般來(lái)說(shuō),植物基食品價(jià)格仍高于類(lèi)似的肉類(lèi)產(chǎn)品,這對(duì)植物基食品沒(méi)有任何好處。

無(wú)論他們的志向多么偉大,人們都不會(huì)花更多的錢(qián)去購(gòu)買(mǎi)他們認(rèn)為低劣的產(chǎn)品。如果植物基肉類(lèi)行業(yè)真的想滿(mǎn)足消費(fèi)者對(duì)更健康、更環(huán)保的飲食的興趣,那就沒(méi)有其他辦法了:他們必須找到一種方法來(lái)改進(jìn)產(chǎn)品并降低價(jià)格。

“改進(jìn)”的產(chǎn)品可能是什么樣子將取決于你問(wèn)誰(shuí)。對(duì)于一些人來(lái)說(shuō),他們希望配料表更精簡(jiǎn)、不熟悉的配料成分更少。對(duì)于其他人來(lái)說(shuō),可以說(shuō)是大多數(shù)人,他們希望產(chǎn)品更多汁、更肥美、更咸,總體上與傳統(tǒng)肉類(lèi)更相似。

無(wú)論消費(fèi)者優(yōu)先考慮什么,高昂的價(jià)格都會(huì)勸退他們,讓他們難以將植物基肉納入日常飲食。隨著公司不斷調(diào)整他們的產(chǎn)品,他們還必須找到降低成本的方法,也許是通過(guò)擴(kuò)大生產(chǎn)規(guī)模。

另一種解釋令人擔(dān)憂(yōu)的銷(xiāo)售數(shù)字的方式是,它們與產(chǎn)品本身無(wú)關(guān):人們只是對(duì)植物基肉不感興趣。

既然最初的炒作已經(jīng)過(guò)去,無(wú)論純素漢堡和雞塊多么美味或價(jià)格實(shí)惠,消費(fèi)者對(duì)它們的需求并不大。雖然這可能看起來(lái)是一個(gè)不可逾越的障礙,但現(xiàn)在我們生活中處處可見(jiàn)的許多產(chǎn)品都不是消費(fèi)者真正需要的。人造需求是一種工具,企業(yè)使用這種工具激起消費(fèi)者對(duì)曾經(jīng)幾乎沒(méi)有任何大眾吸引力的東西的購(gòu)買(mǎi)欲。

其中一個(gè)例子就是瓶裝水。環(huán)保主義者安妮·倫納德(Annie Leonard)等消費(fèi)主義批評(píng)者認(rèn)為,飲料公司通過(guò)說(shuō)服力營(yíng)銷(xiāo)說(shuō)服消費(fèi)者購(gòu)買(mǎi)瓶裝水,這些水通常不會(huì)比他們廚房水槽里的水更好或更清潔。

我們有機(jī)會(huì)使用相同的策略,但是是為了更美好的明天。瓶裝水的爆炸式增長(zhǎng)極大地加劇了塑料垃圾問(wèn)題,同時(shí)它只是提供了大多數(shù)消費(fèi)者家中本來(lái)就有的東西。另一方面,植物基肉實(shí)際上可以改變世界——無(wú)論購(gòu)物者目前是否想要它。

成功的公司會(huì)走在人們的需求前面,用消費(fèi)者自己都不會(huì)想到的創(chuàng)新產(chǎn)品來(lái)滿(mǎn)足他們的價(jià)值取向。

當(dāng)今市場(chǎng)上的很多植物基肉制品在消費(fèi)者眼中存在著明顯的缺陷,但其背后的核心理念仍然是有現(xiàn)實(shí)意義的。

今天,有些人希望少吃肉,減少碳足跡,并改善膽固醇和血壓等健康指標(biāo)。盡管我們所知道的植物基肉在某些領(lǐng)域仍有待改進(jìn),但它們?nèi)匀豢梢越鉀Q工業(yè)化畜牧業(yè)的主要環(huán)境和道德問(wèn)題。即使我們目前擁有的特定產(chǎn)品不能完全滿(mǎn)足消費(fèi)者的需求,它們的核心價(jià)值仍然是有現(xiàn)實(shí)意義的,在地球的未來(lái)懸而未定的情況下,口味和價(jià)格只需簡(jiǎn)單研發(fā)就能解決。(財(cái)富中文網(wǎng))

布萊恩·卡特曼(Brian Kateman)是忌肉主義者基金會(huì)(Reducetarian Foundation)的聯(lián)合創(chuàng)始人兼總裁。該基金會(huì)是一個(gè)非營(yíng)利組織,致力于減少肉、蛋和奶制品的消費(fèi),以創(chuàng)造一個(gè)健康、可持續(xù)和富有同情心的世界。布萊恩·卡特曼是《忌肉主義者如何做出妥協(xié)》(Meat Me Halfway)的作者——受到同名紀(jì)錄片的啟發(fā),并且是《忌肉主義者食譜》(The Reducetarian Cookbook)和《忌肉主義者解決方案》(The Reducetarian Solution)的編輯。

It feels like practically every other day, a splashy new story about plant-based protein is hitting the business pages. Whether it’s a major fast-food or supermarket chain partnering with a vegan meat brand, a celebrity or business leader investing big money into a plant-based food startup, or an established meat or dairy company launching a new plant-based product, the excitement around the sector seems to be holding steady.

However, among some market watchers, there are whispers that plant-based meat may have already reached its peak. Market data from 2021 shows some pretty alarming dips in revenue—as much as 15% from the previous year.

As quickly as meatless burgers, nuggets, and sandwiches appeared on fast-food menus, they’re beginning to disappear. Critics point to disappointing sales figures, which have led some restaurant chains to ratchet down their advertising for plant-based meat dishes or remove them from their menus entirely. Now that the initial hype is waning, it looks as though consumers might not be interested in plant-based meat after all.

Industry leaders like Beyond Meat point to a plethora of possible explanations, including the general pandemic slowdown and a fallen interest in healthy eating. But those suppositions might not match up with reality. The Financial Times cites a recent survey of American adults which found that 39% of respondents wanted to reduce their meat consumption—but 40% of that same group expressed no interest in eating plant-based meat currently or in the future.

The truth might be a little harder for the industry to swallow: It’s not that people are uninterested in healthier and more planet-friendly foods. It’s just that plant-based meat, as it exists currently, isn’t doing it for them.

In interpreting those falling sales figures, researchers and other experts have put forth a wide range of consumer complaints. Yes, a plant-based burger patty might have zero cholesterol and lower saturated fat than its beefy counterpart, but the ingredient list—full of oils and lab-developed protein isolates—scares off the health nuts and “clean eating” population.

For others, the main problem is taste: The products they’ve tried just aren’t good enough. The price point, which is generally still higher than comparable meat products, isn’t doing plant-based food any favors.

No matter how lofty their aspirations are, people just aren’t going to spend more money on a product they find inferior. If the plant-based meat sector really wants to be the answer to consumer interest in healthier, climate-friendlier eating, there’s no way around it: They’re going to have to find a way to improve products and lower prices.

What an “improved” product might look like will depend on who you ask. For some, it’ll be a shorter ingredient list and fewer unfamiliar components. For others, arguably most, it’ll just be something juicier, fattier, saltier, and overall more similar to traditional meat.

No matter what consumers prioritize, high prices are going to make it difficult for them to justify integrating plant-based meat into their regular diet. As companies continue to tweak their products, they must also find a way to reduce costs, perhaps by scaling up production.

Another way to interpret the worrying sales figures is that they have little to do with the products themselves: People simply aren’t interested in plant-based meat.

Now that the initial hype has passed, there just isn’t much consumer demand for vegan burgers and nuggets, no matter how tasty or affordable they are. While this might seem like an insurmountable obstacle, plenty of products that are now ubiquitous in our world are things that consumers never really asked for. Manufactured demand is a tool that corporations have used to make people want things that once had little to no mass appeal.

One such example is bottled water. Critics of consumerism, such as environmentalist Annie Leonard, have argued that persuasive marketing is the real reason beverage companies have convinced consumers to buy water that’s generally no better or cleaner than the stuff that already comes from their kitchen sink.

We have the chance to use the same tactic, but for good. The explosion of bottled water has contributed significantly to the problem of plastic waste while offering nothing that most consumers didn’t already have at home. Plant-based meat, on the other hand, could actually improve the world—whether shoppers currently want it or not.

Successful companies will get ahead of what people want, addressing the customers’ values with a product so innovative that they wouldn’t have thought of it themselves.

Many of the plant-based meat products on the market today have obvious flaws in the eyes of consumers, but the core idea behind them is still relevant.

Today, some people want to eat less meat, reduce their carbon footprint, and improve health markers like cholesterol and blood pressure. Despite the areas where plant-based meat as we know it leaves something to be desired, the category could still be the solution to the major environmental and ethical drawbacks of industrial animal agriculture. Even if the specific products we have currently aren’t totally satisfying the consumer, their core values are still relevant, and with Earth’s future hanging in the balance, taste and price are nothing a little R&D can’t fix.

Brian Kateman is cofounder and president of the Reducetarian Foundation, a nonprofit organization dedicated to reducing consumption of meat, eggs, and dairy to create a healthy, sustainable, and compassionate world. Kateman is author of Meat Me Halfway—inspired by a documentary of the same name—and editor of The Reducetarian Cookbook and The Reducetarian Solution.

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