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這兩大國(guó)民服裝品牌將從商場(chǎng)中消失

Gap、Banana Republic將從商場(chǎng)大舉撤出,未來(lái)或難覓蹤影。

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2020年3月27日周五,加州舊金山,佩戴著口罩的行人走過(guò)被木板封住的Gap鮑威爾街市場(chǎng)街門店。圖片來(lái)源:Lea Suzuki—The San Francisco Chronicle/Getty Images

數(shù)十年來(lái),Gap與Banana Republic的門店一直都是商場(chǎng)的“常住客”,但如今這兩個(gè)品牌正計(jì)劃在未來(lái)三年關(guān)閉北美350家門店,如此一來(lái),未來(lái)在商場(chǎng)中將很難看到這兩個(gè)品牌的身影。

Gap品牌創(chuàng)辦于1969年,但近年業(yè)務(wù)持續(xù)萎縮,對(duì)其而言,2023年前關(guān)閉220家門店(約占其門店總數(shù)的三分之一)意味著剩余門店中將僅有20%還會(huì)留在商場(chǎng)中。Banana Republic則計(jì)劃關(guān)閉約130家門店。10月22日,Gap的全球總裁馬克·布雷特巴德在分析師網(wǎng)絡(luò)直播中宣布了這一舉措。

他在網(wǎng)絡(luò)直播中說(shuō):“為了對(duì)企業(yè)業(yè)務(wù)架構(gòu)進(jìn)行重組,將更多業(yè)務(wù)轉(zhuǎn)到線上,擴(kuò)大品牌在關(guān)鍵品類的市場(chǎng)份額,公司將減少北美的專賣店數(shù)量,并逐步從商場(chǎng)撤出。”上周早些時(shí)候,Gap已經(jīng)表示計(jì)劃關(guān)閉旗下大部分歐洲門店,并將在歐洲改用許可經(jīng)營(yíng)模式。

他補(bǔ)充說(shuō):“我們此前對(duì)那些低產(chǎn)出、高房租的門店太過(guò)依賴了。”疫情初期,由于門店關(guān)門長(zhǎng)達(dá)數(shù)周之久,Gap集團(tuán)與商場(chǎng)運(yùn)營(yíng)商西蒙地產(chǎn)公司就租金收繳問(wèn)題產(chǎn)生過(guò)糾紛。布雷特巴德表示:“我們用過(guò)去六個(gè)月的時(shí)間解決了地產(chǎn)的問(wèn)題,提升了公司的轉(zhuǎn)型速度。”

由于商場(chǎng)近幾年一直在走下坡路,加上越來(lái)越多的Gap客戶轉(zhuǎn)而選擇線上購(gòu)物,Gap也對(duì)其門店策略進(jìn)行了重新審視。關(guān)店工作結(jié)束后,Gap和Banana Republic的營(yíng)收將有80%來(lái)自線上及商場(chǎng)外的門店。

與之不同的是,Gap集團(tuán)旗下發(fā)展迅猛的子品牌Old Navy(貢獻(xiàn)了Gap公司一半的銷售額)和Athleta則采取了相反的策略,二者均宣布未來(lái)將開設(shè)更多門店。Old Navy現(xiàn)有1200家門店,去年該品牌曾經(jīng)表示可能會(huì)在現(xiàn)有門店基礎(chǔ)上再逐步開設(shè)800家新店,不過(guò)由于疫情影響、業(yè)務(wù)承壓,其擴(kuò)張速度也有所放緩。

疫情期間,Old Navy的表現(xiàn)優(yōu)于大多數(shù)同行,上季度銷售額僅下降5%,其首席執(zhí)行官南希·格林表示,通過(guò)擴(kuò)大運(yùn)動(dòng)服業(yè)務(wù)、增加大碼服裝銷售,Old Navy的年銷售額有望在短期內(nèi)從80億美元上升至100億美元。

至于價(jià)值10億美元的Athleta品牌,其高管表示,該品牌有望在三年內(nèi)實(shí)現(xiàn)業(yè)績(jī)翻番,并計(jì)劃在現(xiàn)有200家門店的基礎(chǔ)上大幅增加門店數(shù)量。到2023年,這兩個(gè)品牌將貢獻(xiàn)Gap公司約70%的收入,高于現(xiàn)在約54%的占比。

Gap公司的首席執(zhí)行官索尼婭·辛格爾指出,雖然年初銷售曾經(jīng)出現(xiàn)大幅下滑,但公司的財(cái)務(wù)狀況依然相對(duì)強(qiáng)勁,她還告訴投資者:“我們將繼續(xù)對(duì)業(yè)務(wù)進(jìn)行精簡(jiǎn),以保證公司經(jīng)營(yíng)的靈活性和快速反應(yīng)能力。”(財(cái)富中文網(wǎng))

數(shù)十年來(lái),Gap與Banana Republic的門店一直都是商場(chǎng)的“常住客”,但如今這兩個(gè)品牌正計(jì)劃在未來(lái)三年關(guān)閉北美350家門店,如此一來(lái),未來(lái)在商場(chǎng)中將很難看到這兩個(gè)品牌的身影。

Gap品牌創(chuàng)辦于1969年,但近年業(yè)務(wù)持續(xù)萎縮,對(duì)其而言,2023年前關(guān)閉220家門店(約占其門店總數(shù)的三分之一)意味著剩余門店中將僅有20%還會(huì)留在商場(chǎng)中。Banana Republic則計(jì)劃關(guān)閉約130家門店。10月22日,Gap的全球總裁馬克·布雷特巴德在分析師網(wǎng)絡(luò)直播中宣布了這一舉措。

他在網(wǎng)絡(luò)直播中說(shuō):“為了對(duì)企業(yè)業(yè)務(wù)架構(gòu)進(jìn)行重組,將更多業(yè)務(wù)轉(zhuǎn)到線上,擴(kuò)大品牌在關(guān)鍵品類的市場(chǎng)份額,公司將減少北美的專賣店數(shù)量,并逐步從商場(chǎng)撤出。”上周早些時(shí)候,Gap已經(jīng)表示計(jì)劃關(guān)閉旗下大部分歐洲門店,并將在歐洲改用許可經(jīng)營(yíng)模式。

他補(bǔ)充說(shuō):“我們此前對(duì)那些低產(chǎn)出、高房租的門店太過(guò)依賴了。”疫情初期,由于門店關(guān)門長(zhǎng)達(dá)數(shù)周之久,Gap集團(tuán)與商場(chǎng)運(yùn)營(yíng)商西蒙地產(chǎn)公司就租金收繳問(wèn)題產(chǎn)生過(guò)糾紛。布雷特巴德表示:“我們用過(guò)去六個(gè)月的時(shí)間解決了地產(chǎn)的問(wèn)題,提升了公司的轉(zhuǎn)型速度。”

由于商場(chǎng)近幾年一直在走下坡路,加上越來(lái)越多的Gap客戶轉(zhuǎn)而選擇線上購(gòu)物,Gap也對(duì)其門店策略進(jìn)行了重新審視。關(guān)店工作結(jié)束后,Gap和Banana Republic的營(yíng)收將有80%來(lái)自線上及商場(chǎng)外的門店。

與之不同的是,Gap集團(tuán)旗下發(fā)展迅猛的子品牌Old Navy(貢獻(xiàn)了Gap公司一半的銷售額)和Athleta則采取了相反的策略,二者均宣布未來(lái)將開設(shè)更多門店。Old Navy現(xiàn)有1200家門店,去年該品牌曾經(jīng)表示可能會(huì)在現(xiàn)有門店基礎(chǔ)上再逐步開設(shè)800家新店,不過(guò)由于疫情影響、業(yè)務(wù)承壓,其擴(kuò)張速度也有所放緩。

疫情期間,Old Navy的表現(xiàn)優(yōu)于大多數(shù)同行,上季度銷售額僅下降5%,其首席執(zhí)行官南希·格林表示,通過(guò)擴(kuò)大運(yùn)動(dòng)服業(yè)務(wù)、增加大碼服裝銷售,Old Navy的年銷售額有望在短期內(nèi)從80億美元上升至100億美元。

至于價(jià)值10億美元的Athleta品牌,其高管表示,該品牌有望在三年內(nèi)實(shí)現(xiàn)業(yè)績(jī)翻番,并計(jì)劃在現(xiàn)有200家門店的基礎(chǔ)上大幅增加門店數(shù)量。到2023年,這兩個(gè)品牌將貢獻(xiàn)Gap公司約70%的收入,高于現(xiàn)在約54%的占比。

Gap公司的首席執(zhí)行官索尼婭·辛格爾指出,雖然年初銷售曾經(jīng)出現(xiàn)大幅下滑,但公司的財(cái)務(wù)狀況依然相對(duì)強(qiáng)勁,她還告訴投資者:“我們將繼續(xù)對(duì)業(yè)務(wù)進(jìn)行精簡(jiǎn),以保證公司經(jīng)營(yíng)的靈活性和快速反應(yīng)能力。”(財(cái)富中文網(wǎng))

Gap Inc's namesake and Banana Republic brands are planning to close another 350 of their North American stores in the next three years in a move that largely exits them from the shopping malls where they have been fixtures for decades.

For Gap, the brand that started in 1969 but which has withered in recent years, closing 220 stores (about one-third of the fleet) by 2023 will mean that only 20% of its remaining stores will still be in malls. Banana Republic is closing some 130 stores. The move was announced by Gap Global president Mark Breitbard on an analyst webcast on Thursday.

"We're shrinking North American specialty stores and getting out of mall-based locations," he said on the webcast. "What we're doing is restructuring the fleet, shifting and pushing more of the business to digital and growing (market) share in key categories." Gap earlier this week said it planned to close most of the brand's stores in Europe and move to a license model in that market.

"We've been overly reliant on low productivity, high rent stores," he added. Gap Inc has been involved in a dispute with mall operator Simon Property Group over rent charged early in the pandemic when stores were closed for weeks. Breitbard continued: "We've used the past six months to address the real estate issues and accelerate our shift."

The long decline of shopping malls in recent years, coupled with the shift online of Gap's customers, has led the company to rethink its real estate. When the closures are complete, the two chains will derive 80% of revenue online and from stores outside malls.

In contrast, Gap Inc's flourishing brands, Old Navy, which generates half of company sales, and Athleta, both announced plans for more stores. Still, Old Navy, which last year said it could open another 800 stores over time on top 1,200 existing locations, is slowing the pace because of pressures on the business from the COVID-19 pandemic.

Old Navy CEO Nancy Green said her brand, which has weathered the pandemic better than most with sales down only 5% last quarter, could grow from $8 billion in annual sales to $10 billion in short order by building up its activewear business and selling more plus size clothing.

As for the $1 billion Athleta brand, executives said it could double in three years and widely build on its 200-store fleet. By 2023, the two brands will generate about 70% of Gap Inc revenue, up from about 54% now.

Gap Inc CEO Sonia Syngal pointed to the company's relatively strong finances despite the sales plunges earlier this year and told investors, "We will continuously streamline to be fast and flexible."

財(cái)富中文網(wǎng)所刊載內(nèi)容之知識(shí)產(chǎn)權(quán)為財(cái)富媒體知識(shí)產(chǎn)權(quán)有限公司及/或相關(guān)權(quán)利人專屬所有或持有。未經(jīng)許可,禁止進(jìn)行轉(zhuǎn)載、摘編、復(fù)制及建立鏡像等任何使用。
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