時尚行業華麗服裝的背后,是巨大的資源浪費,受經濟放緩影響,現在各大品牌又都在想方設法處理滯銷產品,這讓“時尚浪費”問題比以往任何時候都倍受關注。
時尚品牌Cuyana認為,就最大程度減少浪費而言,自己在時尚行業已經遙遙領先。這家位于舊金山的企業表示,公司只生產零售商認為可以售出的產品,也由此實現了90%的售罄率,這在時尚行業絕對是令人羨慕的成績。而傲人的成績同樣離不開Cuyana選材精良、功能多樣且四季皆宜(可能是其最重要的賣點)的產品,即便出現供應過剩,產品也很容易放到下一季度甚至下一年度繼續銷售,從而獲得更長的銷售時間。
相較于競爭品牌,Cuyana的服裝所選面料都十分結實耐用,其中尤以僅出產于秘魯北部的比馬棉織物最為出色,這種耐用性也是Cuyana最為人稱道的特質之一。據估計,比馬棉面料的使用壽命較標準棉面料長50%。為了在裙子、襯衫、褲子以及更多服裝產品中應用比馬棉材料,并讓顧客在日常生活中以這些產品為基礎穿搭出各種不同風格,Cuyana投入可謂不菲。
正是基于這些思考,Cuyana推出了“100天、2件衣服、50套穿搭”的挑戰賽,讓顧客用兩件比馬棉服飾在100天內傳出各種不同風格。
近期,《財富》雜志采訪了Cuyana的聯合創始人卡拉·加利亞多和希爾帕·沙阿,討論了她們在疫情期間消除時尚浪費的策略。
為簡明期間,以下采訪內容做了一些編輯。
《財富》:早在新冠疫情爆發前,快時尚及其造成的浪費就已經成為零售業和環境保護者頭疼的大問題。過去幾年,Cuyana的服飾產品在市場上贏得了“中端價格、更高品質”的美譽。在“減少時尚浪費”方面,你們交出比同行更好的成績單,這是怎么做到的?
沙阿:Cuyana的經營理念是“更少就是更好”,即購買經久耐用、功能多樣的產品,延長使用壽命,減少浪費。與大多數品牌不同,我們希望顧客買少一點、買好一點,而不是鼓勵顧客買太多衣服。此外,我們除了生產和銷售,還會通過構思一些新的穿搭來吸引顧客盡可能穿上我們的衣服,我們也會為顧客提供護理指導,教會顧客通過精心保養來延長產品的使用壽命。
考慮到Cuyana是時尚行業的服裝零售品牌,從商業角度來看,你們鼓勵消費者少買衣服的做法會不會有點“反常”?是什么促使你們發起了“100天、2件衣服、50套穿搭”的活動?
加利亞多:發起這一活動是為了推廣Cuyana主打的比馬棉纖維材料,展示其品質、多用性及超長的使用壽命。我們會向客戶提供各種信息和建議來激發他們的靈感,使得他們能在100天內用2件比馬棉衣服穿搭出各種不同風格。之所以會發起這項挑戰賽,是因為我們了解到每位消費者平均每年會購買68件衣服,而這些衣服平均只穿7次就會被丟掉。(浪費如此嚴重),難怪大家會把時尚視為氣候變化的罪魁禍首之一。
當然,我們還發現,消費者一旦購買Cuyana品牌的服飾,感受過我們產品的品質和強大功能,就會慢慢用我們的服飾來打造自己的衣櫥,并有可能成為我們的忠實粉絲。通過持續提供經久耐穿的高品質服飾,我們與顧客建立了良好的關系,也成為了他們購買必備衣物的首選,對我們而言,這里蘊藏著巨大的商機。贏得消費者的信任,從而在必備衣物市場獲得一席之地是我們的經營目標,而要想實現這一目標,我們就必須不忘初心,不斷設計出耐用的高品質產品。
許多零售商在這次經濟下行中遭受了重大打擊。與此同時,消費者可能也在重新審視自己的購物習慣,從購買更多便宜產品轉向購買高價值產品。疫情對Cuyana有何影響?
加利亞多:與許多零售商(尤其是那些已經關閉實體店的零售商)一樣,Cuyana的銷售額也經歷了從下滑到緩慢穩定恢復的過程。不過,我們也發現,在Cuyana擁有很強優勢的基礎產品方面,銷售情況卻是一如既往的好。現在,消費者比以往任何時候都更愿意購買舒適,品質又好的日常必備衣物。
此外,我們在設計產品時就已將產品的適應性納入考量,希望為消費者提供能夠隨著生活場景、生活方式變化而改變的產品。我們以創新的方式將產品的審美功能和實用功能完美地結合在一起。比如,我們有一款“三合一”包包,可以用作手抓包、錢包和腰包使用,我們的背包也配有一根可拆卸的背帶,可以作單肩包使用。這種多功能性就體現了我們所說的“更少就是更好”理念:提供結實耐用、功能多樣的產品。
展望未來,疫情過后,零售商可以采取哪些措施來遠離快時尚、增加對(產品)重復使用、回收利用的投入?
沙阿:我們認為,這次疫情和隨之而來的“慢生活”為我們打造更可持續的生活方式創造了可能。品牌方超購存貨造成浪費是快時尚行業的大問題。為了抓住每個可能的銷售機會,許多品牌都愿意超購相對便宜的存貨。當打折也無法賣掉這些存貨時,他們就會干脆把這些存貨扔掉或者燒掉。讓我們感到震驚的是,60%的成衣會在出廠一年之內會被燒掉或者丟進垃圾堆填區。
我們沒有采用這種模式,而是盡可能地根據需求來確定采購量,從而避免出現生產過剩的情況,即便這意味著限量版產品會被迅速搶購一空。我們專注于提供四季皆宜的核心款服飾,所以大部分產品都可以全年銷售,不需要退出(扔掉)過季未售出的產品。
最后,我們一直與暴力干預計劃(Violence Intervention Program)的分支機構H.E.A.R.T.(Helping Ease Abuse Related Trauma,幫助減輕虐待相關創傷組織)保持著合作關系,并通過該組織將我們的滯銷產品捐贈給那些有需要的女性。2019年,我們售出了90%的產品,相對于60%到70%的行業標準來說,這個數字可以說是非常高了。我們希望每個零售商都能認真對待這個指標,并通過適當方法來減少庫存積壓,或者通過捐贈、回收等更可持續的方式讓產品退出市場。(財富中文網)
譯者:Feb
時尚行業華麗服裝的背后,是巨大的資源浪費,受經濟放緩影響,現在各大品牌又都在想方設法處理滯銷產品,這讓“時尚浪費”問題比以往任何時候都倍受關注。
時尚品牌Cuyana認為,就最大程度減少浪費而言,自己在時尚行業已經遙遙領先。這家位于舊金山的企業表示,公司只生產零售商認為可以售出的產品,也由此實現了90%的售罄率,這在時尚行業絕對是令人羨慕的成績。而傲人的成績同樣離不開Cuyana選材精良、功能多樣且四季皆宜(可能是其最重要的賣點)的產品,即便出現供應過剩,產品也很容易放到下一季度甚至下一年度繼續銷售,從而獲得更長的銷售時間。
相較于競爭品牌,Cuyana的服裝所選面料都十分結實耐用,其中尤以僅出產于秘魯北部的比馬棉織物最為出色,這種耐用性也是Cuyana最為人稱道的特質之一。據估計,比馬棉面料的使用壽命較標準棉面料長50%。為了在裙子、襯衫、褲子以及更多服裝產品中應用比馬棉材料,并讓顧客在日常生活中以這些產品為基礎穿搭出各種不同風格,Cuyana投入可謂不菲。
正是基于這些思考,Cuyana推出了“100天、2件衣服、50套穿搭”的挑戰賽,讓顧客用兩件比馬棉服飾在100天內傳出各種不同風格。
近期,《財富》雜志采訪了Cuyana的聯合創始人卡拉·加利亞多和希爾帕·沙阿,討論了她們在疫情期間消除時尚浪費的策略。
為簡明期間,以下采訪內容做了一些編輯。
《財富》:早在新冠疫情爆發前,快時尚及其造成的浪費就已經成為零售業和環境保護者頭疼的大問題。過去幾年,Cuyana的服飾產品在市場上贏得了“中端價格、更高品質”的美譽。在“減少時尚浪費”方面,你們交出比同行更好的成績單,這是怎么做到的?
沙阿:Cuyana的經營理念是“更少就是更好”,即購買經久耐用、功能多樣的產品,延長使用壽命,減少浪費。與大多數品牌不同,我們希望顧客買少一點、買好一點,而不是鼓勵顧客買太多衣服。此外,我們除了生產和銷售,還會通過構思一些新的穿搭來吸引顧客盡可能穿上我們的衣服,我們也會為顧客提供護理指導,教會顧客通過精心保養來延長產品的使用壽命。
考慮到Cuyana是時尚行業的服裝零售品牌,從商業角度來看,你們鼓勵消費者少買衣服的做法會不會有點“反常”?是什么促使你們發起了“100天、2件衣服、50套穿搭”的活動?
加利亞多:發起這一活動是為了推廣Cuyana主打的比馬棉纖維材料,展示其品質、多用性及超長的使用壽命。我們會向客戶提供各種信息和建議來激發他們的靈感,使得他們能在100天內用2件比馬棉衣服穿搭出各種不同風格。之所以會發起這項挑戰賽,是因為我們了解到每位消費者平均每年會購買68件衣服,而這些衣服平均只穿7次就會被丟掉。(浪費如此嚴重),難怪大家會把時尚視為氣候變化的罪魁禍首之一。
當然,我們還發現,消費者一旦購買Cuyana品牌的服飾,感受過我們產品的品質和強大功能,就會慢慢用我們的服飾來打造自己的衣櫥,并有可能成為我們的忠實粉絲。通過持續提供經久耐穿的高品質服飾,我們與顧客建立了良好的關系,也成為了他們購買必備衣物的首選,對我們而言,這里蘊藏著巨大的商機。贏得消費者的信任,從而在必備衣物市場獲得一席之地是我們的經營目標,而要想實現這一目標,我們就必須不忘初心,不斷設計出耐用的高品質產品。
許多零售商在這次經濟下行中遭受了重大打擊。與此同時,消費者可能也在重新審視自己的購物習慣,從購買更多便宜產品轉向購買高價值產品。疫情對Cuyana有何影響?
加利亞多:與許多零售商(尤其是那些已經關閉實體店的零售商)一樣,Cuyana的銷售額也經歷了從下滑到緩慢穩定恢復的過程。不過,我們也發現,在Cuyana擁有很強優勢的基礎產品方面,銷售情況卻是一如既往的好。現在,消費者比以往任何時候都更愿意購買舒適,品質又好的日常必備衣物。
此外,我們在設計產品時就已將產品的適應性納入考量,希望為消費者提供能夠隨著生活場景、生活方式變化而改變的產品。我們以創新的方式將產品的審美功能和實用功能完美地結合在一起。比如,我們有一款“三合一”包包,可以用作手抓包、錢包和腰包使用,我們的背包也配有一根可拆卸的背帶,可以作單肩包使用。這種多功能性就體現了我們所說的“更少就是更好”理念:提供結實耐用、功能多樣的產品。
展望未來,疫情過后,零售商可以采取哪些措施來遠離快時尚、增加對(產品)重復使用、回收利用的投入?
沙阿:我們認為,這次疫情和隨之而來的“慢生活”為我們打造更可持續的生活方式創造了可能。品牌方超購存貨造成浪費是快時尚行業的大問題。為了抓住每個可能的銷售機會,許多品牌都愿意超購相對便宜的存貨。當打折也無法賣掉這些存貨時,他們就會干脆把這些存貨扔掉或者燒掉。讓我們感到震驚的是,60%的成衣會在出廠一年之內會被燒掉或者丟進垃圾堆填區。
我們沒有采用這種模式,而是盡可能地根據需求來確定采購量,從而避免出現生產過剩的情況,即便這意味著限量版產品會被迅速搶購一空。我們專注于提供四季皆宜的核心款服飾,所以大部分產品都可以全年銷售,不需要退出(扔掉)過季未售出的產品。
最后,我們一直與暴力干預計劃(Violence Intervention Program)的分支機構H.E.A.R.T.(Helping Ease Abuse Related Trauma,幫助減輕虐待相關創傷組織)保持著合作關系,并通過該組織將我們的滯銷產品捐贈給那些有需要的女性。2019年,我們售出了90%的產品,相對于60%到70%的行業標準來說,這個數字可以說是非常高了。我們希望每個零售商都能認真對待這個指標,并通過適當方法來減少庫存積壓,或者通過捐贈、回收等更可持續的方式讓產品退出市場。(財富中文網)
譯者:Feb
Fashion has a major waste problem, and this issue has become more timely than ever as brands scramble to find ways to unload their unsold items as a result of the economic slowdown.
Fashion brand Cuyana believes it is already several steps ahead of the industry when it comes to minimizing waste. The San Francisco label says it produces only what the retailer believes it can sell, resulting in a sell-through rate of 90%, an admirably high figure for the industry. To achieve this, the brand utilizes higher-quality materials to produce designs that are versatile, functional, and (perhaps most importantly) seasonless, making it easier for the brand to roll over excess product to the next quarter or even next year for a longer shelf life.
One of Cuyana's most lauded qualities is the stronger fabrics used in its clothing compared to its competitors, most especially the durable but softer Pima cotton fibers grown exclusively in northern Peru. Pima cotton is estimated to be 50% longer lasting than standard cotton, and the brand has heavily invested in incorporating Pima cotton into its clothing pieces with the intention that these dresses, shirts, pants, and more will serve as core pieces to be mixed and matched and reused repeatedly in a customer's day-to-day wardrobe.
With all of this in mind, Cuyana has launched the 100 Days, 50 Wears, 2 Pieces challenge, positing that a customer can successfully and sustainably style oneself through 100 days with just two of the Pima cotton pieces.
Fortune recently spoke with Cuyana's cofounders, Karla Gallardo and Shilpa Shah, about their strategies for eliminating fashion waste during the pandemic.
The following interview has been lightly edited for clarity and brevity.
Fortune: Fast fashion, and the waste it has created, was already a huge problem in retail and for the environment well before the pandemic. Over the past several years, Cuyana has built a reputation for higher-quality clothing and accessories at mid-market prices. How does your company stand apart from other retailers in the industry when it comes to fashion waste?
Shah: Cuyana was founded around the idea of "fewer, better," a philosophy grounded in buying versatile pieces that are made to last for the benefit of increased wearability and decreased waste. Unlike most brands, Cuyana encourages customers to buy less by buying better. Furthermore, our relationship with the product doesn’t end once it’s in our customer’s hands. We ensure that our pieces are worn as much as possible by inspiring new ways to keep our core pieces in rotation, as well as encouraging our customer to extend the product’s life through care instructions and care products.
Given that Cuyana is a fashion brand and clothing retailer, it might seem a bit counterintuitive to encourage consumers to buy fewer clothes, at least from a business standpoint? What inspired the launch of Cuyana's 100 Days, 50 Wears, 2 Pieces initiative?
Gallardo: The initiative was designed to champion one of Cuyana’s hero materials—Pima cotton—for its quality, versatility, and longevity. With the right inspiration, information, and provocation from Cuyana, a customer can successfully and sustainably style themselves through 100 days with just two Pima pieces. Cuyana created this challenge because the average consumer buys 68 items of clothing per year, but wears each item only an average of seven times before it is discarded. It is no wonder why fashion is a major contributor to climate change.
We find that once a customer purchases their first Cuyana piece and experiences the quality and versatility firsthand, they are quite likely to become a loyal customer who comes back to us over time to build out their wardrobe. By consistently delivering on quality products that can be worn again and again, we are able to build a relationship with our customer and become a go-to source for essentials, which is a large opportunity. Gaining trust and, thus, overall share of wallet in the category of core essentials is always our goal, which is only achieved through staying true to our mission of designing quality products that last.
Amid the current economic downturn, retailers have taken a major hit to their sales streams. At the same time, consumers might be rethinking their purchasing habits, moving away from more cheap buys to favoring investment pieces. What has the pandemic been like for Cuyana?
Gallardo: Like many retailers, especially those who have closed their brick-and-mortar locations, Cuyana has seen a dip in sales with a slow and steady recovery. However, we have found that basics—an area in which Cuyana has a particularly strong presence—is as sought after as ever. Now more than ever, customers are looking for everyday staples that are comfortable, but elevated.
Additionally, we create products with the intent of providing pieces that will transition with our customers as their routines and lifestyles change. Our products marry beauty and functionality in innovative ways. For example, our three-in-one bag can fulfill the role of a clutch, wallet, and waist bag, and our backpack can be worn over the shoulder with a detachable strap. This type of versatility is how we define fewer, better: pieces that last by offering duality.
Looking much further down the road, past the pandemic, what steps can retailers take to ensure a greater commitment to reuse and recycling and pivoting away from fast fashion?
Shah: We think that the pandemic and subsequent slower way of living have shed light on ways we can lead more sustainable lifestyles. A huge problem in the fashion industry is the waste created by brands overbuying inventory. Many brands are incentivized to overbuy relatively inexpensive inventory in order to capture every sale possible. Once they are no longer able to offload it through discounting, they end up simply throwing it away or incinerating it. We find it shocking that through these mechanisms, 60% of garments end up in incinerators or landfills within a year of being made.
Instead of participating in this practice, we buy as close to demand as possible to prevent overproduction, even if that means we sell out quickly on our limited-edition products. Because our business model is focused on core, seasonless styles, we are able to sell most products year-round, as opposed to having to exit (throw away) last season’s unsold items.
Finally, we have an ongoing partnership with H.E.A.R.T. [Helping Ease Abuse Related Trauma, part of the Violence Intervention Program], where we donate any unsold items to women in need. In 2019, we sold through 90% of the products we made, which is very high compared to the industry standard of 60% to 70%. We would encourage every retailer to take a hard look at this metric and find ways that make sense for them to reduce overstock inventory or exit products more sustainably through donation or recycling.