以前拉夫勞倫新款服飾交貨通常要幾個月,本周兩款新產品投入制作的速度卻相當驚人。兩款產品是防護口罩和隔離服,提供給抗擊新冠病毒前線的醫務人員。
3月27日,總部位于紐約的美國時尚品牌拉夫勞倫宣布,將與供應商合作制作25萬個口罩和2.5萬件隔離服。北美和歐洲的門店將無限期關閉。與此同時,拉夫勞倫加入了布克兄弟、加拿大鵝、Jockey和Fanatics等服裝品牌之列,像戰時一樣努力緩解必需品嚴重短缺問題。
當然,制作醫療級隔離服跟制作V領毛衣或羊絨披肩外套可不是一回事。因此,3月13日美國宣布進入緊急狀態后,拉爾勞倫高管研究了美國食品藥品監督管理局和疾病控制中心要求的規格,然后才開始投入生產。
“我們有供應鏈,不過之前主要用來制作服裝和配件。我們并不知道怎么做個人防護裝備,”拉夫勞倫首席供應鏈和可持續發展官哈利德?阿拉格茨告訴《財富》雜志。
要研究的問題主要包括:隔離服的防感染性能以及所需的材料。口罩方面考慮因素相似:要研究與普通寬松型口罩相比,應對新冠病毒的醫療人員對N95口罩的具體要求。(注:N95的意思是可過濾空氣中95%的0.3微米以上顆粒物,也可濾掉新型冠狀病毒。)
生產過程中,拉夫勞倫接受了美國時裝設計師協會和美國成衣及鞋類協會的指導。拉夫勞倫研究清楚政府的規格后,向制造合作伙伴提交需求以了解各家的生產能力,其中包括改造機器制作口罩。
紐約一家名叫Ferrara Manufacturing的供應商挺身而出,該公司曾與拉爾勞倫合作多年。Ferrara表示,已按照食品藥品監督管理局的要求對工廠進行深度清潔,支付工人工資,搭建工作區并調試機器。(拉夫勞倫將1000萬美元新冠病毒救濟金撥出一部分用于支持。)
1990年以來,Ferrara一直為拉夫勞倫制作高端女裝,還為美國運動員制作奧運會開幕式和閉幕式禮服。幾天之內Ferrara便完成改造,上周四開始為醫院制作隔離服,上周末開始制作布口罩。(Ferrara也向公眾出售口罩,價格為25美元。)口罩可清洗數十次,所以能重復使用。
拉夫勞倫還跟Hanes等其他一些合作伙伴合作,Hanes捐贈了一些原材料。不過,多年來個人防護用品生產有不少轉移到海外,美國服裝制造能力也有所削弱,阿拉格茨意識到得更廣泛撒網。畢竟,由于需求迫切,公司必須要實現承諾的產量,而且要迅速行動。
拉夫勞倫在美國制造的口罩主要用于一般防護,不適合醫務人員或手術室醫生。不過拉夫勞倫已指定一家亞洲合作伙伴引進防護效果更佳KN95口罩,該口罩經過美國疾控中心批準,可作為N95口罩的替代品。(上周美國食品和藥物管理局發布了進口KN95口罩的緊急使用許可,協助解決口罩短缺問題。)
“我們意識到,要更快提供需要的裝備,”阿拉格茨表示。
防護裝備就緒之后,未來幾天將運往紐約州、新澤西和北卡羅萊納州,通過州政府分發給醫院,因為拉夫勞倫三個州有大量雇員。
拉夫勞倫尚未承諾制作更多的口罩和隔離服。跟其他時尚公司一樣,拉夫勞倫也在努力應對無限期關店的后果。上個財年公司銷售額達到63億美元,周一表示4月晚些時候將安排員工強制休假。首席執行官帕特里斯?盧維等高管已宣布臨時大規模減薪。
不管怎樣,拉夫勞倫還是希望盡可能做出貢獻。“我們迫切想幫忙,提供一些支持和援助,”阿拉格茨說。(財富才中文網)
譯者:Charlie
審校:夏林
以前拉夫勞倫新款服飾交貨通常要幾個月,本周兩款新產品投入制作的速度卻相當驚人。兩款產品是防護口罩和隔離服,提供給抗擊新冠病毒前線的醫務人員。
3月27日,總部位于紐約的美國時尚品牌拉夫勞倫宣布,將與供應商合作制作25萬個口罩和2.5萬件隔離服。北美和歐洲的門店將無限期關閉。與此同時,拉夫勞倫加入了布克兄弟、加拿大鵝、Jockey和Fanatics等服裝品牌之列,像戰時一樣努力緩解必需品嚴重短缺問題。
當然,制作醫療級隔離服跟制作V領毛衣或羊絨披肩外套可不是一回事。因此,3月13日美國宣布進入緊急狀態后,拉爾勞倫高管研究了美國食品藥品監督管理局和疾病控制中心要求的規格,然后才開始投入生產。
“我們有供應鏈,不過之前主要用來制作服裝和配件。我們并不知道怎么做個人防護裝備,”拉夫勞倫首席供應鏈和可持續發展官哈利德?阿拉格茨告訴《財富》雜志。
要研究的問題主要包括:隔離服的防感染性能以及所需的材料。口罩方面考慮因素相似:要研究與普通寬松型口罩相比,應對新冠病毒的醫療人員對N95口罩的具體要求。(注:N95的意思是可過濾空氣中95%的0.3微米以上顆粒物,也可濾掉新型冠狀病毒。)
生產過程中,拉夫勞倫接受了美國時裝設計師協會和美國成衣及鞋類協會的指導。拉夫勞倫研究清楚政府的規格后,向制造合作伙伴提交需求以了解各家的生產能力,其中包括改造機器制作口罩。
紐約一家名叫Ferrara Manufacturing的供應商挺身而出,該公司曾與拉爾勞倫合作多年。Ferrara表示,已按照食品藥品監督管理局的要求對工廠進行深度清潔,支付工人工資,搭建工作區并調試機器。(拉夫勞倫將1000萬美元新冠病毒救濟金撥出一部分用于支持。)
1990年以來,Ferrara一直為拉夫勞倫制作高端女裝,還為美國運動員制作奧運會開幕式和閉幕式禮服。幾天之內Ferrara便完成改造,上周四開始為醫院制作隔離服,上周末開始制作布口罩。(Ferrara也向公眾出售口罩,價格為25美元。)口罩可清洗數十次,所以能重復使用。
拉夫勞倫還跟Hanes等其他一些合作伙伴合作,Hanes捐贈了一些原材料。不過,多年來個人防護用品生產有不少轉移到海外,美國服裝制造能力也有所削弱,阿拉格茨意識到得更廣泛撒網。畢竟,由于需求迫切,公司必須要實現承諾的產量,而且要迅速行動。
拉夫勞倫在美國制造的口罩主要用于一般防護,不適合醫務人員或手術室醫生。不過拉夫勞倫已指定一家亞洲合作伙伴引進防護效果更佳KN95口罩,該口罩經過美國疾控中心批準,可作為N95口罩的替代品。(上周美國食品和藥物管理局發布了進口KN95口罩的緊急使用許可,協助解決口罩短缺問題。)
“我們意識到,要更快提供需要的裝備,”阿拉格茨表示。
防護裝備就緒之后,未來幾天將運往紐約州、新澤西和北卡羅萊納州,通過州政府分發給醫院,因為拉夫勞倫三個州有大量雇員。
拉夫勞倫尚未承諾制作更多的口罩和隔離服。跟其他時尚公司一樣,拉夫勞倫也在努力應對無限期關店的后果。上個財年公司銷售額達到63億美元,周一表示4月晚些時候將安排員工強制休假。首席執行官帕特里斯?盧維等高管已宣布臨時大規模減薪。
不管怎樣,拉夫勞倫還是希望盡可能做出貢獻。“我們迫切想幫忙,提供一些支持和援助,”阿拉格茨說。(財富才中文網)
譯者:Charlie
審校:夏林
While lead times for making new Ralph Lauren clothes and accessories are typically measured in months, this week two new looks for the fashion company went into production at breakneck speed: protective masks and isolation gowns for medical workers on the front lines of the coronavirus pandemic.
The New York fashion house, whose North American and European stores are closed indefinitely, announced on March 27 it would work with suppliers to make 250,000 masks and 25,000 isolation gowns. In so doing, Ralph Lauren joined the ranks of clothiers from Brooks Brothers and Canada Goose to Jockey and Fanatics in a wartime-like mass effort to alleviate acute shortages of these essential items.
Making medical-grade protective wear, of course, is not the same as making a V-neck sweater or a cashmere shawl cardigan. So Ralph Lauren, whose top executives were moved to act by the U.S. declaration of a national emergency on March 13, had to first understand the specifications required by the Food and Drug Administration and Centers for Disease Control before leaping into the production of personal protective equipment.
“We do have a supply chain, though it’s built mainly for apparel and accessories. We didn’t know what it takes to produce PPEs,” Halide Alag?z, Ralph Lauren’s chief supply chain and sustainability officer, tells Fortune.
The issues to understand included how resistant a surgical gown needs to be in relation to the risk of contamination, and what materials that entails. As for masks, the considerations were similar: What are the specific requirements for the N95 mask (which derives its name from the percentage of particles 0.3 microns or larger in the air, including the new coronavirus, that it filters out) for medical professionals treating COVID-19 patients, compared with those of a loose, surgical mask used under other circumstances.
Ralph Lauren received guidance from the Council of Fashion Designers of America and the American Apparel & Footwear Association throughout the process. Once Ralph Lauren knew what the government’s specs were, it sent out feelers to its manufacturing partners to see who had what capabilities, including having machines able to make masks.
One of Ralph Lauren longest-standing suppliers, a New York company called Ferrara Manufacturing, quickly stepped up. Ferrara said it was ready to carry out the deep cleaning of its facility required by the FDA, pay workers, set up the workspaces and adjust its machinery. (Some of Ralph Lauren’s $10 million grant for COVID-19 relief has gone to this effort.)
And so Ferrara, which since 1990 has made high-end women’s wear for Ralph Lauren as well as its Olympic opening and closing ceremony clothing for U.S. athletes, within days retooled itself as a factory for hospital gowns, which it started making last Thursday, and fabric face masks, which rolled out this past weekend. (Ferrara is also selling the masks to the public for $25 apiece.) The masks can be washed up to a couple of dozen times, making them reusable.
Ralph Lauren is also working with a few other domestic partners, such as Hanes, which donated some of the materials being used. Still, given how much PPE production has moved overseas over the years, and the erosion of America’s garment manufacturing capabilities, it became clear to Alag?z that she’d have to cast a wider net. After all, the company needed to meet volume goals and move quickly, given the pressing need for the items.
The U.S.-made masks by Ralph Lauren are for general protection and not for personnel treating patients or for doctors in an operating room. But Ralph Lauren tapped an Asian partner to bring in the heavier-duty KN95 masks, a substitute for N95s the CDC has deemed acceptable. (The FDA issued an emergency use authorization for the importation of KN95 masks last week to help with the U.S. shortage.)
“We realized we need to be quicker in providing the units required,” says Alag?z.
Once these items are ready to be shipped in the coming days, they will be sent to New York, New Jersey, and North Carolina and distributed to hospitals via those states’ governments, since Ralph Lauren has a large number of employees in those states.
Ralph Lauren has not committed to producing more masks and gowns just yet. Like other fashion companies, it is struggling to deal with the fallout of having stores closed indefinitely. The company, which brought in sales of $6.3 billion last fiscal year, said on Monday that it will furlough employees later in April. Top executives, including CEO Patrice Louvet, have taken major, temporary pay cuts.
Still, the company wants to contribute as much as it can. “We felt an urgent need to be part of the solution to provide some support and relief,” Alag?z says.