生物學家馬克斯·迦米利和朋友泡吧的時候,突然想到了下一次創業的靈感。迦米利和朋友埃德·史提爾這兩位肉食者,都想減少自己的碳足跡,因此他們點了一個不在菜單上的植物性肉餅。他們很快就感到后悔。
迦米利對《財富》雜志表示:“這個肉餅沒有油煎食物的咝咝聲,味道也不正常,而且沒有脂肪的美味和口感。”當時,他意識到植物性食品缺失一種成份,那就是脂肪,他將在未來幾年專注于脂肪的開發。
現在,在肉類替代品領域出現了一種新潮流:在植物性食品中添加動物脂肪(通常是在實驗室中培養),作為已成立三年的Hoxton Farms的創始人,迦米利和史提爾處于這個潮流的最前沿。
位于倫敦的Hoxton Farms公司培養了多種不同類型的豬肉脂肪。它們的競爭對手包括位于舊金山的Mission Barns公司,該公司開發的實驗室培養豬肉脂肪,可添加到植物性培根、肉丸和香腸當中。另外一個競爭對手是位于洛杉磯的Choppy公司(原Paul’s Table),該公司將10%的動物脂肪、膠原蛋白或肉汁混合成主要以植物為原料制作的烤牛肉和切塊牛排,在美國西海岸的許多超市中出售。Lypid和Cubiq Foods等其他公司正在努力讓素食者接受動物脂肪。
在替代蛋白質經歷了幾年的低迷后,人們開始轉向(某種程度上的)肉類。植物性蛋白公司曾經是風險投資的寵兒,并且因為改善氣候和美國人健康的崇高承諾而大獲成功,但在疫情期間許多公司遭遇重創,而且大多數公司至今仍沒有恢復元氣。
Beyond Meat憑借“會流血的”素食漢堡,在2019年完成了漲幅最大的首次公開募股,但其市值已經從38億美元,降至如今的4.5億美元。最近,一位分析師對行業刊物《AgFunderNews》表示,Beyond Meat處于“生存模式”。Impossible Foods去年的營收增長了50%,但已經以市場環境為由取消了IPO計劃。這兩家公司去年都進行了裁員。據風險資本跟蹤機構Pitchbook統計,植物性人造肉公司的融資降至近十年來的最低水平。該機構去年曾質疑“植物性人造肉行業是否已經達到了最高峰?”
Pitchbook高級新興技術分析師亞歷克斯·弗雷德里克表示,事實證明,“吸引眼球的”因素逐漸消失之后,肉食者并沒有被肉類的仿制品說服,不再繼續食用人造肉,特別是植物性人造牛肉的價格比真牛肉的價格高約30%至40%。
Choppy聯合創始人布萊斯·克萊因對《財富》雜志表示:“讓人們花更多錢購買口感更差、且并不比真肉更健康的產品,這并不是一種促進重復購買的好方法。這些產品或公司并沒有真正解決消費者的問題。氣候變化是全球的問題,但它并不是消費者個人的問題;你不能依賴價值觀填飽肚子?!?/p>
植物性人造肉的維護者表示,它們的出現時日尚短。Impossible的發言人在一份聲明中表示:“植物性食品才剛剛起步。該行業的全球規模達到75億美元,而動物肉行業的規模高達1.4萬億美元。我們公司生產的人造肉商品上市不足十年,大規模上市也只有幾年時間?!?/p>
這位發言人還表示:“我們是美國唯一一家持續增長的植物性人造肉公司,而且我們的銷售額和單位銷售增長速度均領先于競爭對手?!?Beyond Meat并未回應《財富》雜志的置評請求。
目前,素食主義者或嚴格素食主義者僅占美國人口的5%,與二十年前的比例基本相同。那些有意減少肉類攝入的肉食者,包括《財富》雜志為撰寫本文采訪的三位創始人,更有可能用雞肉或蔬菜代替牛肉,而不是人造牛肉肉餅。
倫敦衛生與熱帶醫學院(London School of Health and Tropical Medicine)可持續發展教授羅斯瑪麗·格林對《財富》雜志表示:“許多人寧愿減少吃漢堡的次數,也不愿意吃口感欠佳且不知道成分的人造肉?!?/p>
牛肉在哪里?
歡迎來到人造肉革命的下一個階段:真正的脂肪,或在某些情況下肉汁或膠原蛋白等肉類副產品。
任何專業廚師都清楚,脂肪是激發食物風味的強大媒介,這就是為什么許多食譜都要求廚師首先用油煸炒大蒜或香料,然后再加入其他食材。主廚兼烹飪導師貝基·塞林格特最近在一篇論文中寫道:“脂肪賦予我們所渴望的細膩、絲滑和豐富的口感?!蔽覀冎钥释荆且驗樵既祟愒谑澄锵∪钡臅r代,進化出了對高熱量的脂肪和蛋白質的偏好。事實上,有研究表明,我們對脂肪的喜好,促進了人類大腦的異常進化。
Hoxton Farms公司的迦米利表示,動物脂肪在室溫下是固體,很難使用植物性油脂復制。即使最容易凝固的植物脂肪椰子油,會在約76華氏度時熔化,這遠低于動物脂肪的熔點。
他說道:“脂肪會影響[食物的]外形,而且迄今為止脂肪對肉類烹飪方式的影響最大?!彼忉尫Q:“當你將牛排加熱時,一部分脂肪會變軟,一部分會熔化變成液體?!笔褂门E抛陨淼闹九腼?,使熱量與氧氣相結合,能夠產生美拉德反應,使牛排變成褐色。他說道:“牛排的味道之所以能在口中經久不散,是因為脂肪覆蓋了你的味蕾。”
動物脂肪富含各種風味特征,迦米利將其稱為“標志”,這決定了不同肉類的獨特風味。他說道:“因此豬肉與牛肉和雞肉的味道不同。這些肉都沒有椰子的味道?!?/p>
迦米利表示,因此人造肉公司“迫切需要創新食材,以改善它們的產品?!?/p>
添加些許風味,減少加工
細胞培養公司距離將產品上市還有很長的路要走,包括擴大生產規模和在英國獲得監管審批。(美國監管部門去年批準實驗室培養的肉類用于食用;英國政府尚未表明立場。)這些公司相信,相比在實驗室加工的植物蛋白,人們應該更積極地看待在實驗室培養的肉類。消費者的健康意識越來越高,當他們發現Impossible和Beyond等公司的產品經過深度加工且對健康無益時,他們可能會拒絕選擇這些產品。
迦米利表示:“無論對錯,人們都將肉類視為一種食材。人們喜歡清潔標簽的理念,如果他們能用人工培養的脂肪取代五六種令人討厭的成分,人們就會愛上它。”
從某種意義上來說,植物性人造肉面臨兩難的境地,一方面它比大多數常見的素食經過更深的“加工”,另一方面它又比動物肉更昂貴。隨著幾乎以假亂真的素食漢堡的新鮮度消失,消費者就會恢復傳統的飲食習慣,這不足為奇。
弗雷德里克表示:“將人造肉與肉類相比,實際上是在與一種商品相比較?!边€有成本問題:他表示,植物性人造肉的價格比同類牛肉制品高約30%至40% —— “在當前的高通脹環境下,這給這類產品的銷售帶來了巨大挑戰”。
從某種意義上來說,把一點點脂肪或肉汁加到一大鍋植物(主要是植物)中,只是用高科技的手法重復了一千年前的烹飪技巧:在資源稀缺的年代,人們會在燉菜中加入一些牛骨以增加風味,或者將肉餡和谷物或面包屑做成肉丸。不可否認,為了阻止氣候變化,未來人類需要減少肉類攝入。但未來的飲食可能更像是靈活素食,而不是嚴格素食主義。
Choppy聯合創始人薩巴·法澤里對《財富》雜志表示:“人們最關心的是口味,然后是價格和健康?!彼硎荆灾参餅橹鞯氖澄?,例如他的公司的產品,代表了未來,但并非絕對真理?!八目谖斗夏愕念A期,而且更有利于每個人和整個地球。”(財富中文網)
翻譯:劉進龍
審校:汪皓
生物學家馬克斯·迦米利和朋友泡吧的時候,突然想到了下一次創業的靈感。迦米利和朋友埃德·史提爾這兩位肉食者,都想減少自己的碳足跡,因此他們點了一個不在菜單上的植物性肉餅。他們很快就感到后悔。
迦米利對《財富》雜志表示:“這個肉餅沒有油煎食物的咝咝聲,味道也不正常,而且沒有脂肪的美味和口感?!碑敃r,他意識到植物性食品缺失一種成份,那就是脂肪,他將在未來幾年專注于脂肪的開發。
現在,在肉類替代品領域出現了一種新潮流:在植物性食品中添加動物脂肪(通常是在實驗室中培養),作為已成立三年的Hoxton Farms的創始人,迦米利和史提爾處于這個潮流的最前沿。
位于倫敦的Hoxton Farms公司培養了多種不同類型的豬肉脂肪。它們的競爭對手包括位于舊金山的Mission Barns公司,該公司開發的實驗室培養豬肉脂肪,可添加到植物性培根、肉丸和香腸當中。另外一個競爭對手是位于洛杉磯的Choppy公司(原Paul’s Table),該公司將10%的動物脂肪、膠原蛋白或肉汁混合成主要以植物為原料制作的烤牛肉和切塊牛排,在美國西海岸的許多超市中出售。Lypid和Cubiq Foods等其他公司正在努力讓素食者接受動物脂肪。
在替代蛋白質經歷了幾年的低迷后,人們開始轉向(某種程度上的)肉類。植物性蛋白公司曾經是風險投資的寵兒,并且因為改善氣候和美國人健康的崇高承諾而大獲成功,但在疫情期間許多公司遭遇重創,而且大多數公司至今仍沒有恢復元氣。
Beyond Meat憑借“會流血的”素食漢堡,在2019年完成了漲幅最大的首次公開募股,但其市值已經從38億美元,降至如今的4.5億美元。最近,一位分析師對行業刊物《AgFunderNews》表示,Beyond Meat處于“生存模式”。Impossible Foods去年的營收增長了50%,但已經以市場環境為由取消了IPO計劃。這兩家公司去年都進行了裁員。據風險資本跟蹤機構Pitchbook統計,植物性人造肉公司的融資降至近十年來的最低水平。該機構去年曾質疑“植物性人造肉行業是否已經達到了最高峰?”
Pitchbook高級新興技術分析師亞歷克斯·弗雷德里克表示,事實證明,“吸引眼球的”因素逐漸消失之后,肉食者并沒有被肉類的仿制品說服,不再繼續食用人造肉,特別是植物性人造牛肉的價格比真牛肉的價格高約30%至40%。
Choppy聯合創始人布萊斯·克萊因對《財富》雜志表示:“讓人們花更多錢購買口感更差、且并不比真肉更健康的產品,這并不是一種促進重復購買的好方法。這些產品或公司并沒有真正解決消費者的問題。氣候變化是全球的問題,但它并不是消費者個人的問題;你不能依賴價值觀填飽肚子?!?/p>
植物性人造肉的維護者表示,它們的出現時日尚短。Impossible的發言人在一份聲明中表示:“植物性食品才剛剛起步。該行業的全球規模達到75億美元,而動物肉行業的規模高達1.4萬億美元。我們公司生產的人造肉商品上市不足十年,大規模上市也只有幾年時間。”
這位發言人還表示:“我們是美國唯一一家持續增長的植物性人造肉公司,而且我們的銷售額和單位銷售增長速度均領先于競爭對手。” Beyond Meat并未回應《財富》雜志的置評請求。
目前,素食主義者或嚴格素食主義者僅占美國人口的5%,與二十年前的比例基本相同。那些有意減少肉類攝入的肉食者,包括《財富》雜志為撰寫本文采訪的三位創始人,更有可能用雞肉或蔬菜代替牛肉,而不是人造牛肉肉餅。
倫敦衛生與熱帶醫學院(London School of Health and Tropical Medicine)可持續發展教授羅斯瑪麗·格林對《財富》雜志表示:“許多人寧愿減少吃漢堡的次數,也不愿意吃口感欠佳且不知道成分的人造肉。”
初創公司(不止一家)正在植物性人造肉中添加動物脂肪。CHOPPY
牛肉在哪里?
歡迎來到人造肉革命的下一個階段:真正的脂肪,或在某些情況下肉汁或膠原蛋白等肉類副產品。
任何專業廚師都清楚,脂肪是激發食物風味的強大媒介,這就是為什么許多食譜都要求廚師首先用油煸炒大蒜或香料,然后再加入其他食材。主廚兼烹飪導師貝基·塞林格特最近在一篇論文中寫道:“脂肪賦予我們所渴望的細膩、絲滑和豐富的口感。”我們之所以渴望脂肪,是因為原始人類在食物稀缺的時代,進化出了對高熱量的脂肪和蛋白質的偏好。事實上,有研究表明,我們對脂肪的喜好,促進了人類大腦的異常進化。
Hoxton Farms公司的迦米利表示,動物脂肪在室溫下是固體,很難使用植物性油脂復制。即使最容易凝固的植物脂肪椰子油,會在約76華氏度時熔化,這遠低于動物脂肪的熔點。
他說道:“脂肪會影響[食物的]外形,而且迄今為止脂肪對肉類烹飪方式的影響最大。”他解釋稱:“當你將牛排加熱時,一部分脂肪會變軟,一部分會熔化變成液體?!笔褂门E抛陨淼闹九腼?,使熱量與氧氣相結合,能夠產生美拉德反應,使牛排變成褐色。他說道:“牛排的味道之所以能在口中經久不散,是因為脂肪覆蓋了你的味蕾。”
動物脂肪富含各種風味特征,迦米利將其稱為“標志”,這決定了不同肉類的獨特風味。他說道:“因此豬肉與牛肉和雞肉的味道不同。這些肉都沒有椰子的味道。”
迦米利表示,因此人造肉公司“迫切需要創新食材,以改善它們的產品。”
添加些許風味,減少加工
細胞培養公司距離將產品上市還有很長的路要走,包括擴大生產規模和在英國獲得監管審批。(美國監管部門去年批準實驗室培養的肉類用于食用;英國政府尚未表明立場。)這些公司相信,相比在實驗室加工的植物蛋白,人們應該更積極地看待在實驗室培養的肉類。消費者的健康意識越來越高,當他們發現Impossible和Beyond等公司的產品經過深度加工且對健康無益時,他們可能會拒絕選擇這些產品。
迦米利表示:“無論對錯,人們都將肉類視為一種食材。人們喜歡清潔標簽的理念,如果他們能用人工培養的脂肪取代五六種令人討厭的成分,人們就會愛上它?!?/p>
從某種意義上來說,植物性人造肉面臨兩難的境地,一方面它比大多數常見的素食經過更深的“加工”,另一方面它又比動物肉更昂貴。隨著幾乎以假亂真的素食漢堡的新鮮度消失,消費者就會恢復傳統的飲食習慣,這不足為奇。
弗雷德里克表示:“將人造肉與肉類相比,實際上是在與一種商品相比較?!边€有成本問題:他表示,植物性人造肉的價格比同類牛肉制品高約30%至40% —— “在當前的高通脹環境下,這給這類產品的銷售帶來了巨大挑戰”。
從某種意義上來說,把一點點脂肪或肉汁加到一大鍋植物(主要是植物)中,只是用高科技的手法重復了一千年前的烹飪技巧:在資源稀缺的年代,人們會在燉菜中加入一些牛骨以增加風味,或者將肉餡和谷物或面包屑做成肉丸。不可否認,為了阻止氣候變化,未來人類需要減少肉類攝入。但未來的飲食可能更像是靈活素食,而不是嚴格素食主義。
Choppy聯合創始人薩巴·法澤里對《財富》雜志表示:“人們最關心的是口味,然后是價格和健康?!彼硎?,以植物為主的食物,例如他的公司的產品,代表了未來,但并非絕對真理?!八目谖斗夏愕念A期,而且更有利于每個人和整個地球。”(財富中文網)
翻譯:劉進龍
審校:汪皓
Biologist Max Jamilly was in a pub with a friend when he hit upon the idea for his next business. Jamilly and his friend Ed Steele, both meat-eaters who were trying to cut down on their carbon footprint, had ordered a plant-based meat patty off the menu. They soon regretted it.
“It didn’t sizzle right, it didn’t smell right, it didn’t have that incredibly fatty taste and mouth feel,” Jamilly told Fortune. At that point, he realized what plant-based foods have been missing, and what he would spend his future years developing: Fat.
Now, as founders of the three-year-old Hoxton Farms, Jamilly and Steele are at the forefront of a nascent trend in the alt-meat world: Putting animal fats (often cultivated in a lab) into plant-based items.
London-based Hoxton Farms cultivates different types of pork fat. They’re competing with Mission Barns, in San Francisco, which is developing vat-grown pork fat to incorporate into plant-based bacon, meatballs, and sausages. And then there’s Los Angeles-based Choppy (formerly Paul’s Table), which mixes 10% animal fat, collagen or broth into mostly plant-based carne asada and chopped steak, which it sells in a handful of supermarkets on the West Coast. Others, including Lypid and Cubiq Foods, are working on convincing vegan versions of animal fat.
The turn toward meat (of a sort) comes after a dismal couple years for alternative proteins. Once flying high on venture capital funding and lofty promises to save the climate and Americans’ health, plant-based protein companies crashed during the pandemic and most haven’t recovered.
Beyond Meat, whose “bleeding” veggie burger propelled it to the the highest-popping IPO in 2019, has slid from a market cap of $3.8 billion to just $450 million today. Beyond Meat is in ‘survival mode,’ an analyst told trade publication AgFunderNews recently. Impossible Foods, which reported 50% revenue growth last year, has nonetheless backed off IPO plans, citing market conditions. Both companies laid off staff last year. And funding for plant-based meats has collapsed to the lowest amount in nearly a decade, according to venture-capital tracker Pitchbook, which last year asked, “Have we hit peak plant-based meat?”
It turns out that, after the “wow” factor wore off, meat-eaters weren’t convinced enough by the imitation stuff to keep eating it—in particular, as plant-based beef runs about 30% to 40% pricier than the real thing, according to Pitchbook senior emerging technology analyst Alex Frederick.
“Asking people to spend more money for worse-tasting products that aren’t healthier than the real thing is not a great way to drive repeat purchase,” Brice Klein, a co-founder of Choppy, told Fortune. “None of these products or companies are really solving a consumer problem, where climate change is an earth problem. But it’s not a consumer problem; you cannot eat values.”
Defenders of plant-based meats note that they’ve only been on the scene for a short time. In a statement, an Impossible spokesperson said: “The plant-based category is just getting started. This is a $7.5 billion global industry compared to the $1.4 trillion animal meat industry. Meat analog products like ours have only been in-market for less than a decade and at mass in just the last few years.”
The spokesperson added, “We’re the only plant-based meat company in the US seeing consistent growth and we’re outpacing all our competitors in both dollar sales and unit sales.” Beyond Meat did not respond to Fortune’s request for comment.
Today, vegetarians or vegans make up just 5% of Americans, roughly the same portion as two decades ago. And those carnivores who are interested in cutting back on their meat intake—including the three founders who Fortune spoke with for this story—are more likely to substitute beef with chicken, or vegetables, than a faux-beef patty.
“Many people would rather reduce the number of times they eat burgers rather than having a meat alternative that doesn’t taste quite as good and where they’re not sure what is in it,” Rosemary Green, a sustainability professor at the London School of Health and Tropical Medicine, told Fortune.
Startups (more than one) are adding animal fat to plant-based meat.
Where’s the beef?
Enter the next phase of the alt-meat revolution: Actual fat, or, in some cases, meat byproducts like broth or collagen.
Fat, as any professional chef knows, is a powerful conduit of flavor—it’s why many recipes have the cook sauté garlic or spices in oil before adding other ingredients. “Fat gives food that creamy, silky, rich texture that we crave,” chef and culinary instructor Becky Selengut wrote in an essay recently. We crave it because hominids evolved to gravitate to calorie-dense fats and proteins during a time when food was hard to come by; indeed, some research suggests our taste for fad led to the evolution of humans’ unusually big brains.
Animal fat, which is solid at room temperature, is especially hard to replicate using plant-based oils, says Hoxton Farms’ Jamilly. (Even coconut oil, the most solid of the plant fats, melts at around 76 degrees Fahrenheit, a far much lower melting point than animal fat.)
“Fat affects the way [food] looks and it has by far the biggest effect on how meat cooks,” he says. “When you heat up a steak, some of the fat softens and then some of it renders, it turns to liquid,” he explains. As the steak cooks in its own fat, the heat and oxygen combine to create the Maillard reaction, which browns the meat. “And the reason the flavor of a steak really lingers is because the fat coats your taste buds,” he says.
Animal fat contains different flavor profiles, what Jamilly calls a “signature,” which contribute to the distinctive flavor of each meat. “That’s why pork tastes different from beef and from chicken. None of them taste like coconut,” he says.
That’s why, according to Jamilly, alt-meat companies “are desperate for innovative ingredients that will make their products better.”
Some flavor, slightly less processing
Cell-cultivation companies still have a long way to go before their products hit shelves, including scaling up and, in the UK, gaining regulatory approval. (U.S. regulators cleared lab-grown meat to eat last year; the UK’s government has yet to weigh in.) They’re betting on the idea that lab-grown meat will still be viewed more positively than lab-processed vegetable proteins. Consumers who have become increasingly health-conscious and were likely turned off by the revelation that Impossible and Beyond are highly processed and not great for health.
“Rightly or wrongly, people think of meat as one ingredient,” says Jamilly. “People like the idea of a clean label, and if they can replace five or six nasty ingredients with cultivated fat, people love it.”
In a sense, plant meat suffered from the worst of both worlds—more “processed” than most typical vegetarian fare and more expensive than animal meat. Once the novelty of almost-the-real-thing veggie burgers wore off, it made sense that consumers would return to their typical ways.
“With meat, you are comparing against a commodity product,” says Frederick. And then there’s the cost: plant-based meats are about 30% to 40% more expensive than the equivalent beef product, he says—”that’s a very challenging sell in this inflationary environment.”
In a sense, putting a little bit of fat or broth in a vat of (mostly) plants is just a high-tech version of millennia-long cooking techniques when resources are scant: Adding some beef bones to a stew for flavor, or stretching ground meat with grains or breadcrumbs for meatballs. It’s undeniable that humans will need to eat less meat in the future if we are to prevent climate change. But that diet may look more flexitarian and less strict vegetarian.
“People care most about flavor, and then price and health,” Choppy co-founder Saba Fazeli tells Fortune. Mostly-plant products like his, he says, are the future, rather than absolutes. “It tastes like what you’d expect, and it’s better for you and the planet.”