“觀賽包包”今秋大賣,里面能裝些什么?
2013年,美國國家橄欖球大聯盟(以下簡稱為“NFL”)更新了帶包入場政策,規定在比賽日哪些包能夠帶進體育場,以及哪些不允許攜帶。隨后,NFL每年都會做出政策微調。目前的規定是,觀看NFL橄欖球比賽的普通觀眾只能夠攜帶跟手一樣大的透明手包進場?!叭该鳌闭吒淖兞擞螒蛞巹t。 大學橄欖球比賽往往沿用NFL的政策,2016年時十大聯盟和Pac 12聯盟的多數大學都采用了相同的透明包政策。奧斯汀市的手提包設計師凱莉·韋恩聽說東南聯盟也要采取同樣政策時,首先想到的不是自己的同名錢包系列產品,而是對密西西比大學鐵桿校友和球迷的影響?!斑@樣一來會影響我的風格。”她說道,隨后解釋說美國南部地區的女球迷非常重視自己在看臺上的形象,“我們去看橄欖球比賽都會盛裝打扮?!?/p> 韋恩設計的皮包在美國東南部地區的女性中已經頗受歡迎,而且隨著皮包在Instagram的照片里頻繁露面,還被貼上專門用于比賽日服裝的標簽,她該怎么做已經很明顯。 于是這位設計師和團隊開始高速運作,將通常需要18個月的設計過程壓縮為6個月,所以當2017年東南聯盟宣布透明包政策時,凱利-韋恩公司在同年7月推出了一款基于其最暢銷皮包而設計的透明包。這家公司類似小作坊,運營和生產總監安·伊萊澤·艾倫一度擔心首批訂單太多,結果一個月內就銷售一空,同年年底實現了50%的銷量增長?,F在,該公司提供六款透明包,在總營收中所占比例約為50%。公司下單數量是當年首批下單的5倍,但“還在擔心訂單量是否夠用”,艾倫說道。 近年來,Hammitt、Truffle Co.和Loeffler Randall等其他公司也推出了時尚前衛(還能帶進體育場)的包。對于體育場經營者來說,如果球迷帶著裝飾球隊顏色的時髦透明斜挎包,或者是Ziploc加侖袋進場,基本上就不會在意,只要包的尺寸不大于12 x 6 x 12英寸(30.48厘米x15.24厘米x30.48厘米)就行。 2014年8月,舊金山49人隊在加利福尼亞州圣克拉拉新開業的利維體育場進行第一場季前賽時,球隊已經花了一年多時間來向季票購買者和球迷介紹政策。球隊的體育場總經理吉姆·莫克里奧是NFL體育場安全委員會委員,據他介紹,首賽季49人隊在當地進行了轟炸式宣傳,從廣播和電視廣告,到停車場里最偏遠的指示牌,再到門票上醒目的文字,都是為了提醒入場觀眾遵守政策。每年49人隊都會繼續盡可能多做宣傳,希望每位看比賽的人都能夠在到場之前知道透明包政策,并相應地做好計劃。努力已經取得回報。“我們現在可以準確追蹤人們進入體育場所需要的時間?!蹦死飱W說道,并指出利維體育場能夠確保開球前30分鐘讓3萬人入場。 在帕洛阿爾托沿路周邊幾英里地區,多數的大學橄欖球迷都已經接受參加大型公共活動帶包的新規定,但每年都會有一些堅決不守規定的人,他們總想批駁該政策,爭論應該允許帶多大的包,有時只是想要發泄憤怒。“真是種冒險”,斯坦福大學的客服總監克里斯·多斯特笑著說道,2016年,斯坦福制定透明包政策時就曾經以NFL的政策為模板?!拔覀兊脑竿?,每過一年(球迷)對透明包政策就更加熟悉和配合一些?!倍嗨固卣f道,“實際進展還是挺讓人欣慰的?!?/p> 不過即便是在體育界之外,透明包似乎也取得了一些進展。現在原宿的意見領袖或倫敦東一區肖爾迪奇的博客寫手可能會驚訝地發現,自己背的包跟高喊“Roll Tide!”口號的橄欖球迷是一樣的。 “90年代的透明包正在卷土重來,成為懷舊運動的一部分?!弊粉櫫闶蹟祿腅DITED公司的零售分析師艾弗里·費根說道?!芭c腰包的卷土重來類似,透明袋現在變成了一種微趨勢,主要見于街頭服飾?!笔聦嵣?,過去兩年巴黎世家、邁克高仕、香奈兒和Staud等奢侈品品牌設計師紛紛推出了透明包。根據EDITED的數據,透明手提包的到貨數量比去年增加了235%,流行到零售商都在提價出售。 但費根說道,2019年秋季和2020年早春的時裝秀上并沒有多少PVC包,倒是很多縫制動物皮包?!爸挥袝r間才可以證明透明包能不能像跟腰包一樣成功?!彼f道。 但是,對于看比賽日觀眾來說,帶透明包似乎已經成為習慣。凱利-韋恩公司的包此前幾乎只有美國南部地區的客戶,但去年該公司在諾德斯特龍上線銷售,之后訂單的地理覆蓋范圍大幅擴張,尤其是在加州?!拔乙惠呑佣紱]想過自己會因為透明包出名。”這位設計師說道。(財富中文網) 譯者:艾倫 審校:夏林 |
In 2013, the NFL announced an update to its bag policy, what you could and could not bring into a stadium on game day, and has continued to fine-tune that policy each year. As it stands, the only bag an average attendee at any NFL football game can bring in is a small clutch, the size of one’s hand, or a clear bag. The “All Clear” policy was a game changer. College football, which is the trickle-down recipient of many NFL policies, followed suit with the majority of the Big Ten and Pac 12 schools adopting the same clear bag policy in 2016. When handbag designer Kelly Wynne, who’s based in Austin, heard the rumblings that the SEC would surely adopt the same policy and soon, her first thought was less for her eponymous purse line, but as a diehard Ole Miss alum and fan. “This is really going to cramp my style,” she said, explaining that Southern female fans care deeply about their appearance in the stands. “We dress up to go to these football games.” Wynne’s leather bags were already popular with women in the Southeast, and as they showed up regularly on Instagram post with hashtags devoted to game day outfits, it was fairly obvious what she needed to do. The designer and her team kicked into high gear, condensing what is normally an 18-month process into six months, so that when the SEC did, in fact, announce its own clear bag policy in 2017, Kelly Wynne brought to market that July a clear bag based on the design of their best-selling leather purse. As a small batch business, Ann Elize Allen, the director of operations and production, was concerned the first order was too big, but they were sold out within a month and had a 50% increase in sales growth by the end of that year. Now the company offers six different clear bags, which account for roughly 50% of total revenue, and their order this year is five times the volume of their first order, “and we are still wondering if we ordered enough,” Allen said. Other companies such as Hammitt, Truffle Co. and Loeffler Randall have also debuted fashion-forward (and stadium compliant) bags in recent years. Stadium operators, for their part, care far less if a fan is carrying a sleek clear crossbody, adorned with tassels in the team’s colors, or a Ziploc gallon bag. So long as its no bigger than 12 x 6 x 12 inches. When the San Francisco 49ers played their first preseason game in August 2014 in the newly opened Levi’s Stadium in Santa Clara, CA, the team had been working for over a year to communicate to its season ticket holders and fans about the policy. Jim Mercurio, the team’s stadium general manager, who also sits on the NFL’s committee for stadium security, said the 49ers spent the first season flooding the zone, as it were, with radio and TV spots, signage that extended to the farthest reaches of the parking lot, prominent printing on the tickets, all to alert game-goers about the policy. Each year, the 49ers continue to advertise the policy as much as possible, the goal being that every person who comes to a game knows about the clear bag policy before they arrive and has planned accordingly. The efforts have paid off. “We are tracking very, very well for how long it takes to get into the facility,” Mercurio said, noting that Levi’s processes 30,000 people into the stadium in the final 30 minutes before kick-off. A few miles up the road in Palo Alto, the majority of college football fans have accepted the new reality of attending large public events, but each year still brings indefatigable outliers, who want to debate the policy, the size of their bag, or to simply register their outrage. “It’s been a real adventure,” laughs Chris Dorst, director of guest services at Stanford. The university viewed the NFL as its roadmap when instituting the policy in 2016. “The expectation with each passing year is [the fans] will be more familiar and comfortable with the clear bag policy,” Dorst said. “We are happy with the way things have gone.” But even beyond the world of sports, clear bags seem to be having a moment. Today’s Harajuku influencer or Shoreditch-based blogger might be rather surprised to find that they share an accessory with someone chanting, “Roll Tide!” “Clear bags are making a comeback from the ‘90s as a part of the nostalgia movement,” Avery Faigen, a retail analyst at EDITED, which tracks retail data, said. “Similar to the fanny pack comeback, clear bags would currently be classified as a micro-trend that’s seen mostly in streetwear.” Indeed, luxury designers like Balenciaga, Michael Kors, Chanel and Staud have all put out transparent bags in the last two years. According to EDITED data, clear handbag arrivals have increased by 235% over the last year, and their popularity is allowing retailers to increase prices. Faigen said, however, that the Fall 2019 and pre-Spring 2020 runway shows were filled not with PVC, but quilted and animal-skinned bags. “Only time will tell if clear bags will follow the same success as the fanny pack,” she said. But for the game-day crowd, the clear look seems here to stay. Last year, Kelly Wynne bags, which previously had an almost exclusively Southern customer base, launched online at Nordstrom and has since seen a major expansion in the geographic reach of its orders, particularly California. “I never in a million years thought I would be known for clear bags,” the designer said. |