開(kāi)普敦?fù)碛许敿?jí)紅酒、絕美沙灘、厚重的歷史，在參觀這個(gè)充滿活力的非洲大都市時(shí)，如何能盡覽這一切？我們來(lái)到了坐落在非洲大陸最大的現(xiàn)代藝術(shù)博物館上面的Silo酒店，聽(tīng)禮賓部的胡恩·金為你制定開(kāi)普敦旅游攻略。

新興街區(qū)：伍德斯托克曾經(jīng)是工廠密集的工業(yè)區(qū)，但現(xiàn)在街頭可以看到很多室內(nèi)設(shè)計(jì)、藝術(shù)設(shè)計(jì)、精釀啤酒以及像SMAC和Whatiftheworld一類的現(xiàn)代畫廊。在伍德斯托克復(fù)興的起源地Old Biscuit Mill，有一個(gè)著名的周六市場(chǎng)。我們把這稱為開(kāi)普敦的布魯克林。

FIRST-CLASS WINES, beautiful beaches, powerful history—how do you take it all in when visiting one of Africa’s most vibrant and cosmopolitan cities? At the Silo, a new hotel perched atop the continent’s largest modern-art museum, concierge Hoon Kim has a plan for your Cape Town trip.

Emerging neighborhood: Woodstock used to be quite industrial, with lots of factories, but it has become an area filled with interior designers, graphic artists, artisanal breweries, and contemporary galleries like SMAC and Whatiftheworld. There’s a famous Saturday market at the Old Biscuit Mill, which started Woodstock’s renaissance a few years back. We call it the Brooklyn of Cape Town.

最佳新餐廳：在非常酷的Janse & Co.，主廚阿諾·揚(yáng)瑟·范倫斯堡只烹制當(dāng)?shù)厥澄?。餐廳食物頗具實(shí)驗(yàn)性和創(chuàng)意，我最近吃過(guò)芝士杏仁烤韭蔥，十分美味，但這卻并非主打精致餐飲。餐廳布局簡(jiǎn)單，暗色的墻面，餐桌上擺著燭臺(tái)。餐廳的小院棒極了，有時(shí)我只是過(guò)去喝一杯不錯(cuò)的冰酒。

Best new restaurant: At the very cool Janse & Co., chef Arno Janse van Rensburg is all about local produce. The food is experimental and creative—I recently had a sensational grilled leek dish with cream cheese and almonds—but it’s not fine dining. The restaurant is very simple, with dark walls and candles on the tables. There’s a wonderful courtyard, too; sometimes I go there just for a nice glass of chilled wine.

逃離城市：法蘭舒克（Franschhoek）在南非荷蘭語(yǔ)里的意思是“法國(guó)角”，離開(kāi)普敦一小時(shí)的距離，以南非美食之都出名。這是胡諾格派教徒于1600年首次定居的地方，擁有全國(guó)最好的餐廳和酒莊。在這個(gè)古色古香的小鎮(zhèn)里，每一個(gè)元素都充滿法式風(fēng)情，在南非中部能看到這樣的景致著實(shí)奇怪又讓人著迷。Haute Cabrière是其中一家家庭經(jīng)營(yíng)的精品酒莊。

Urban escape: Franschhoek—Afrikaans for “French corner”—is about an hour from Cape Town and is known as the culinary capital of South Africa. It’s where the Huguenots first settled around 1600 and today is home to some of the country’s best restaurants and wine estates. Everything in this quaint town has a French feel, which is really weird and wonderful in the middle of South Africa. Haute Cabrière is a family owned boutique wine estate here.

海灘游憩：因?yàn)槟蠘O冰山融化，環(huán)繞開(kāi)普敦的南大西洋夏天甚至涼過(guò)冬天。這兒的大部分人都更鐘愛(ài)日光浴而非游泳，沖浪當(dāng)然也備受歡迎。坎普斯灣和克利夫頓海灘都是熱門沖浪點(diǎn)，但我更偏愛(ài)南部海岸的梅森堡海灘，這里沙灘細(xì)軟，水溫宜人。

當(dāng)?shù)厝说拿孛埽?/strong>Reverie Social Table是當(dāng)?shù)厝艘詾楹赖囊患覐霓r(nóng)場(chǎng)到餐桌式的餐廳，坐落在十分有特色的天文臺(tái)地區(qū)。主廚朱莉婭·哈廷年輕有事業(yè)心，我從未見(jiàn)過(guò)有人比她對(duì)當(dāng)?shù)禺a(chǎn)品和酒更有熱情。她依據(jù)輪換的酒單設(shè)計(jì)了一份五道菜的菜單。餐廳只有一條長(zhǎng)桌，最多能容納大概12個(gè)人，所以你得和陌生人一起就餐。

Beach break: Because of melting icebergs from the South Pole, the South Atlantic Ocean surrounding Cape Town is actually colder in the summer than in the winter. Most people here prefer suntanning to swimming, but surfing is definitely very popular. Camps Bay and Clifton Beach are famous surf beaches, but I like Muizenberg Beach on the southern coast for its sand and milder water temperatures.

Locals’ secret: Reverie Social Table is a proudly South African farm-to-table eatery located in the quirky Observatory neighborhood. The chef, Julia Hattingh, is young and ambitious; I’ve never seen anyone as passionate about local produce and wine. She creates the five-course menu around a rotating wine selection. It’s served at a long table that accommodates maybe 12 people max, so you have to like sitting with strangers.

必購(gòu)清單：南非因皮制品出名，尤其是鴕鳥(niǎo)皮。Cape Cobra手工皮具是一家精品店，店主謝弗家族手工制作店內(nèi)的每一件商品，無(wú)論是皮帶還是卡包，或是精美的手提包，用的都是高品質(zhì)的當(dāng)?shù)仄ち稀?

Must-have souvenir: South Africa is famous for leather goods, especially ones made from ostrich. Cape Cobra Leathercraft is a boutique whose owners, the Schafer family, make everything by hand, from belts to credit card holders to fabulous handbags, using very high-quality local leather.

雷區(qū)：羅賓島。雖然納爾遜·曼德拉曾被囚此地，但游覽羅賓島由政府管理，并非最佳選擇。想要了解種族隔離時(shí)期的慘痛歷史，可以去參觀第六區(qū)博物館。

10000美金一日游

我們請(qǐng)金給我們定制一個(gè)特別的開(kāi)普敦一日游：這一天從乘坐直升機(jī)游覽開(kāi)普半島的壯麗風(fēng)光開(kāi)始，一覽水濱、桌山、好望角的驚艷景致。客人回城后，邁巴赫會(huì)載著他們前往酒鄉(xiāng)中心的Chef’s Warehouse Beau Constantia享用西班牙風(fēng)味午餐。飯后返回開(kāi)普敦，登上the Only One號(hào)游艇出海，在夕陽(yáng)下開(kāi)啟奢華旅程，在享受南非香檳和精致點(diǎn)心的同時(shí)，可以下海游個(gè)泳，游艇還會(huì)帶他們前往桌灣兜兜風(fēng)。最后，在Silo酒店屋頂?shù)姆毙窍伦鲆粋€(gè)全身按摩，放松身心，結(jié)束這一天的旅程。（財(cái)富中文網(wǎng)）

Things to avoid: Tours of Robben Island, where Nelson Mandela was imprisoned, are government regulated and not the best run. To learn about the painful memories of the apartheid era, try the District Six Museum instead.

The $10,000 Day

We asked Kim to plan us a special, singular day in Cape Town: The day would begin with a dramatic, scenic helicopter trip over the Cape Peninsula, affording jaw-dropping views of the waterfront, Table Mountain, and the Cape of Good Hope. Upon the guests’ return to the city, we’d whisk them off in a Maybach limousine for a tapas lunch at Chef’s Warehouse Beau Constantia in the heart of wine country. After lunch, guests would return to Cape Town for a luxurious sunset yacht excursion aboard the Only One, where, in between sips of South African bubbly and bites of gourmet canapés, they could go for a swim before zipping out for a spin around Table Bay. And to conclude the day: a relaxing full-body massage under the stars on the rooftop of the Silo hotel.

本文的另一版本發(fā)表在《財(cái)富》雜志2018年8月1日刊，題目為《南非的母親城》。

譯者：Agatha

A version of this article appears in the August 1, 2018 issue of Fortune with the headline “South Africa’s Mother City.”