前往加拉帕戈斯群島最年輕（至少100萬年歷史）的費(fèi)爾南迪納島，仿佛進(jìn)入了被時(shí)間遺忘的角落。乘坐充氣船，從唯一著陸點(diǎn)蓬塔·埃斯皮諾薩上岸，穿過海岸線上茂密的紅樹林，眼前是成百上千深灰色海鬣蜥熙熙攘攘，還能碰見它們雄赳赳地一起吐海水。

拉昆布雷火山是世界上最活躍的火山之一，過去50年里噴發(fā)了六次，火山幾乎占據(jù)整座島，涌動(dòng)著巖漿的火山向四面八方蔓延。就在火山腳下，海獅在淺灘上擊水玩耍，獨(dú)特的叫聲與拍擊岸邊的海浪聲應(yīng)和著。另一邊，猩紅色的細(xì)紋方蟹沿著暗黑色海岸線急速橫行，而天上盤旋的加拉帕戈斯鷹正俯視一切。費(fèi)爾南迪納島上從沒出現(xiàn)過入侵物種，除了人類，所以這里的生態(tài)系統(tǒng)也是世界上最原始的之一。

說起遠(yuǎn)離塵囂，很少有地方比得上加拉帕戈斯。群島在太平洋上，距厄瓜多爾約600英里，包括20座火山島（還有一些小島），雖然每年接待超過20萬游客，至今仍是未受污染的世外桃源。群島上有不少全球僅有的物種，有大加拉帕戈斯龜、加拉帕戈斯雀（共有13個(gè)獨(dú)有物種），還有加拉帕戈斯企鵝（世界第二小）。查爾斯·達(dá)爾文關(guān)于自然選擇進(jìn)化的開創(chuàng)性著作《物種起源》里介紹過該地，從此為人所知，近160年后加拉帕戈斯群島成了物種保護(hù)的標(biāo)志性地區(qū)。

這里也是積極且具有教育意義的度假之地。達(dá)爾文曾說：“哪怕只是浪費(fèi)一個(gè)小時(shí)，也說明忽視生命的價(jià)值?！边@句話道出了在加拉帕戈斯度假的精髓。無論是登頂巴爾托洛米島觀賞火星一般的地貌，探訪加拉帕戈斯地標(biāo)——方尖碑一般的尖礁，還是漫步在圣克魯茲島巴紹海灘迷人的白色沙灘，此處是綠海龜主要筑巢地點(diǎn)，亦或泛舟前往伊莎貝拉島的海灣觀察企鵝和棕色鵜鶘，從黎明到傍晚大部分時(shí)間都會(huì)很興奮（不算悠閑午餐）。如果之前你沒怎么鍛煉，在這里能找回感覺。

ARRIVING ON FERNANDINA ISLAND, the youngest (at less than 1 million years old) and westernmost in the Galápagos, is like discovering a land that time forgot. Once you disembark from your inflatable panga at Punta Espinosa, its sole landing site, and make your way through the dense mangrove forest that fringes the coastline, you’re greeted by a colony of hundreds of charcoal-colored marine iguanas lounging atop one another and sneezing out salt water in a spirited chorus.

La Cumbre volcano, one of the world’s most active with six eruptions in the past 50 years, dominates the landscape, its rippled lava fields extending in every direction. In its shadow, sea lions splash in the shallows, their distinctive barks intermingled with the crashing waves, as scarlet Sally Lightfoot crabs scuttle along the ebony shoreline and Galápagos hawks survey the scene from above. No foreign species have ever invaded Fernandina—human visitors aside—making it one of the world’s most pristine ecosystems.

When it comes to far-flung escapes, few rival the Galápagos. Located in the Pacific Ocean some 600 miles off the coast of mainland Ecuador, the archipelago of 20 volcanic islands (and dozens more islets) remains an unspoiled utopia despite hosting more than 200,000 annual visitors. Home to a slew of species found nowhere else on earth—the giant Galápagos tortoise, the Galápagos finch (13 unique species in total), and the Galápagos penguin (the world’s second-smallest), to name a few—the islands endure as a beacon of the conservation movement nearly 160 years after the publication of Charles Darwin’s seminal treatise on evolution by natural selection, On the Origin of Species, put them on the proverbial map.

They’re also an exhilarating option for an active and educational adventure. Darwin once said, “A man who dares to waste one hour of time has not discovered the value of life,” which could well be the mantra of a Galápagos vacation. Whether you’re summiting the Mars-like terrain of Bartolomé Island—home to obelisk-shaped Pinnacle Rock, a Galápagos landmark—strolling the blinding white sands of Santa Cruz Island’s Bachas Beach, a prime nesting site for green sea turtles, or kayaking the coves of Isabela Island perusing penguins and brown pelicans, you’re largely in motion from dawn until cocktail hour (minus a leisurely lunch). If you’ve been neglecting your workouts, you’ll get back into your groove here.

如果你的日常生活缺乏驚喜，加拉帕戈斯則是完美補(bǔ)充。沿伊莎貝拉島（最長之處為82英里）烏爾比納灣附近的小徑蜿蜒而行，很可能遇到好幾只巨大的加拉帕戈斯龜四處溜達(dá)，不少都已年過百歲。也可以潛入原生態(tài)十足的伊莎貝拉島塔霍斯灣海底，尋找鈷藍(lán)色海星和長著白色背鰭的珊瑚礁鯊魚，還有加拉帕戈斯鸕鶿（世界上最大，也是唯一一種不會(huì)飛的鸕鶿），它們輕巧地潛入水中捕食午餐，然后鉆回水面。一定要在西班牙島加德納海灣的沙灘上過上幾晚，這可能是群島上最棒的沙灘，數(shù)十只黃褐色海獅在清澈見底的海水里仰面朝天，身旁有人走過也毫不在意。

來到這里不僅要體驗(yàn)下大型島嶼的酒店，也要嘗試下船宿，更好地探索多樣生態(tài)。船基本上在晚上行駛，所以每天早上醒來都在新地方，開始全新旅程，不用把寶貴的白天時(shí)間花在旅途中。乘坐小型游艇的話，還可前往大船無法?？康牡顷扅c(diǎn)。

Or if it’s a sense of wonder that’s lacking from your daily routine, the Galápagos will replenish your reserves. Meander along the trails near Urbina Bay on Isabela Island (the largest at 82 miles long) and you’re likely to encounter at least a handful of giant Galápagos tortoises, many nearly a century old, as they mosey by. Snorkel to the bottom of Isabela’s pristine Tagus Cove in search of cobalt sea stars and white-tipped reef sharks alongside Galápagos cormorants (the world’s largest and only flightless cormorant) as they deftly dive for their lunch before rocketing back to the surface. And be sure to spend a couple of late-afternoon hours on the beach at Espa?ola Island’s Gardner Bay, perhaps the archipelago’s most dazzling stretch of sand, where dozens of tawny sea lions loll at the crystalline water’s edge, turning their whiskered faces upward, utterly unfazed, as you pass.

EXPLORING THIS TROVE of ecological treasures by live-aboard boat, vs. from a hotel on one of the larger islands, is essential: Since these ships move primarily by night, you wake each day in a new locale ready to jump right into the day’s itinerary, instead of frittering away valuable waking hours in transit. Smaller yachts also enjoy access to landing sites unavailable to larger cruise ships.

像許多絕美之地一樣，加拉帕戈斯群島面臨著各種生存威脅。盡管1998年為保護(hù)島嶼周圍的水域劃定了5萬平方英里保護(hù)區(qū)，但非法捕魚十分猖獗。僅去年一年，就截獲30多艘非法捕魚船，其中一艘載有數(shù)萬條魚，有鯊魚，也有其他種類。非法捕魚導(dǎo)致海洋生態(tài)系統(tǒng)失衡，島上標(biāo)志性的藍(lán)腳鰹鳥近年來數(shù)量明顯減少。

隨著越來越多游客前往觀光，新物種進(jìn)入的風(fēng)險(xiǎn)隨之增加，也對(duì)島嶼生態(tài)造成威脅。一種入侵性寄生蠅就導(dǎo)致當(dāng)?shù)鬲?dú)有的紅樹林雀幾乎滅絕，現(xiàn)在僅剩下約100只?？蒲蟹菭I利組織達(dá)爾斯·達(dá)爾文基金會(huì)跟加拉帕戈斯國家公園理事會(huì)一直在積極合作，努力保護(hù)群島生態(tài)。最新進(jìn)展是成功增加平塔島、弗羅里亞納和圣達(dá)菲島上大型海龜?shù)臄?shù)量。如果想了解更多開創(chuàng)性行動(dòng)，可以登錄官網(wǎng)darwinfoundation.org。

如何前往

預(yù)定須知

接待《財(cái)富》雜志的Quasar Expeditions是一家家族持有旅行公司，成立于1986年。公司有兩艘游艇，每天在群島間往返七到八次。其中M/V Evolution游艇去年剛完成翻新，可搭載32位乘客。另一艘則是迷人的M/Y Grace號(hào)，前身是希臘船王亞里士多德·奧納西斯送給好萊塢女星格蕾絲·凱利和摩納哥王子雷尼爾親王的結(jié)婚禮物，該船可載18位客人。兩艘游艇均可出租。

前往加拉帕戈斯群島

從陸地上厄瓜多爾首都基多和瓜亞基爾出發(fā)，每天都有不少航班。要從美國前往厄瓜多爾兩座城市，可選擇美國航空、美聯(lián)航和哥倫比亞阿維安卡航空等航班。

去群島前一晚

去加拉帕戈斯群島探險(xiǎn)之前務(wù)必休息好，基多歷史中心完美改造的卡薩甘戈特納酒店就是不二選擇。1978年，基多被聯(lián)合國科教文組織列入首批世界遺產(chǎn)。而該精品酒店巧妙融合了新古典主義和裝飾派藝術(shù)元素，可俯瞰著名的舊金山廣場，還能一覽城市周邊的火山。（財(cái)富中文網(wǎng)）

本文另一版本發(fā)表于2018年7月1日出版的《財(cái)富》雜志，標(biāo)題為《厄瓜多爾的神奇島嶼》。

譯者：Pessy

審校：夏林

Like many extraordinary environments, the Galápagos face a litany of threats to their fragile existence. Though the 50,000-square-mile Galápagos Marine Reserve was designated in 1998 to protect the waters surrounding the islands, illegal fishing is rampant. Last year alone, more than 30 vessels, one of which contained tens of thousands of sharks and other fish, were captured within its bounds. The resulting imbalance in the marine ecosystem is already impacting the iconic blue-footed booby, whose population has decreased in recent years.

The risk of introduced species, which grows in step with increased tourist arrivals, also looms large. Presently, an invasive parasitic fly threatens to render the endemic mangrove finch—of which only an estimated 100 remain—extinct. The Charles Darwin Foundation, a scientific research nonprofit dedicated to preserving the Galápagos, and the Galápagos National Park Directorate continue to work together to protect the archipelago: Recent successes include the ongoing repopulation of giant tortoises on the islands of Pinta, Floreana, and Santa Fé. To learn more about these groundbreaking initiatives, visit darwinfoundation.org

If You Go

What to book

Quasar Expeditions, a family-owned company founded in 1986, hosted Fortune. It operates two small ships that each run seven-night expedition cruises in the Galápagos. The M/V Evolution, which was entirely refurbished last year, sleeps 32, while the charming M/Y Grace—?a wedding gift to Grace Kelly and Prince Rainier from Aristotle Onassis in its former life—accommodates 18. Both yachts are available for charter.

Getting to the archipelago

There are multiple daily departures to the Galápagos from Quito and Guayaquil on mainland Ecuador. American Airlines, United, and Avianca, among others, fly regularly from the U.S. to both cities.

The night before

For a restful, refined stay before your Galápagos expedition, Casa Gangotena, a stunning converted mansion, is an unparalleled choice in the historic center of Quito, which was named the first Unesco World Heritage site in 1978. The boutique hotel, which melds neoclassical and Art Deco elements to exceptional effect, overlooks the famous Plaza San Francisco and the city’s surrounding volcanoes.

A version of this article appears in the July 1, 2018 issue of Fortune with the headline “Ecuador’s Enchanted Isles.”