博柏利集團(tuán)股價(jià)飆升，因?yàn)榫W(wǎng)紅設(shè)計(jì)師將經(jīng)典重新設(shè)計(jì)后在中國(guó)迅速走紅，需求大增。

在截至6月的三個(gè)月里，博柏利的同店銷售增長(zhǎng)4%，達(dá)到分析師預(yù)測(cè)的兩倍。博柏利在上周二表示，去年設(shè)計(jì)師里卡多·提西加盟品牌之后推出的新品實(shí)現(xiàn)了兩位數(shù)百分比的強(qiáng)勁增長(zhǎng)，此前提西在法國(guó)時(shí)尚品牌紀(jì)梵希從事設(shè)計(jì)而知名。

博柏利在倫敦市場(chǎng)股價(jià)最高上漲達(dá)11%，創(chuàng)下2012年以來(lái)的最大漲幅。

提西剛到博柏利，就給各個(gè)店面和廣告牌加上了新的字母印花圖案，在旅行包、高跟鞋和風(fēng)衣等產(chǎn)品里也一并添加，與酩悅·軒尼詩(shī)－路易·威登集團(tuán)的旗艦品牌路易威登等注重顯示商標(biāo)的同行展開(kāi)競(jìng)爭(zhēng)。

提西加入博柏利后，在去年秋天舉辦了首場(chǎng)時(shí)裝秀，新造型在Instagram和中國(guó)的微信等社交平臺(tái)上重新引起了消費(fèi)者的興趣，之后公司在各商店大力鋪貨。

盡管第二季度中國(guó)經(jīng)濟(jì)增速創(chuàng)下了近30年新低，但該季度博柏利在中國(guó)大陸的銷售額增長(zhǎng)了十幾個(gè)百分點(diǎn)，超出分析師預(yù)期。

新的字母圖案

“字母印花在中國(guó)引發(fā)了強(qiáng)烈共鳴。” 公司的首席財(cái)務(wù)官朱莉·布朗在接受記者的電話采訪時(shí)說(shuō)道。“新設(shè)計(jì)吸引了很多千禧一代顧客。”

雖然受到關(guān)店沖擊，但隨著提西推出的新品推動(dòng)更快增長(zhǎng)，博柏利維持了營(yíng)收持平的業(yè)績(jī)預(yù)期。博柏利一直在縮減非奢侈品和折扣門(mén)店的規(guī)模，降低百貨商店業(yè)績(jī)低迷帶來(lái)的風(fēng)險(xiǎn)，同時(shí)努力提升品牌認(rèn)知度。

在歐洲奢侈品公司當(dāng)中，博柏利第一家公布第二季度銷售額，在中國(guó)需求的回彈力度受到質(zhì)疑之際，這份強(qiáng)勁的財(cái)報(bào)可能提振全行業(yè)的預(yù)期。

中國(guó)當(dāng)局最近出臺(tái)了降低銷售稅和提升進(jìn)口關(guān)稅等政策，刺激中國(guó)消費(fèi)者減少國(guó)外購(gòu)物游，轉(zhuǎn)為國(guó)內(nèi)消費(fèi)。但布朗表示，由于很多中國(guó)游客熱愛(ài)提西推出的新品，還是拉升了博柏利在英國(guó)的銷量。

博柏利的設(shè)計(jì)創(chuàng)新“應(yīng)該能讓人相信中國(guó)大陸的消費(fèi)可健康增長(zhǎng)”，MainFirst的分析師約翰·蓋伊在一份報(bào)告中表示。博柏利在整個(gè)亞洲地區(qū)的業(yè)績(jī)都好于預(yù)期，但在重要購(gòu)物中心香港可能受頻繁的抗議活動(dòng)拖累。

前任設(shè)計(jì)師克里斯托弗·貝利在職后期，博柏利陷入了增長(zhǎng)停滯，提西的加入為品牌設(shè)計(jì)注入了新活力。在此之前，貝利用時(shí)尚的英倫校園風(fēng)設(shè)計(jì)風(fēng)格幫助博柏利提高了五倍營(yíng)收。

蕾哈娜和麥當(dāng)娜

為紀(jì)梵希工作期間，提西將傳奇性的法國(guó)高級(jí)定制品牌與流行文化偶像碧昂斯和金·卡戴珊搭上了橋。在加入博柏利后，他推出的新造型一面世就受到了蕾哈娜、麥當(dāng)娜和伊莉娜·莎伊克等人的熱捧，也借機(jī)提升了網(wǎng)絡(luò)知名度。

博柏利表示，提西加入公司一年以后，截至第二季度末他的新設(shè)計(jì)占到店內(nèi)銷售約一半。（財(cái)富中文網(wǎng)）

譯者：艾倫

審校：夏林

Burberry Group Plc surged as demand for its social-media-savvy designer’s revamped looks took off in China.

Store sales rose 4% on a comparable basis for the three months through June, double the rate analysts predicted. New collections from Riccardo Tisci, who joined the U.K. luxury brand last year after winning fame at the French fashion house Givenchy, delivered strong double-digit percentage growth, Burberry said last Tuesday.

The shares rose as much as 11% in London trading, the most since 2012 on an intraday basis.

Tisci marked his arrival at Burberry by plastering a flashy new monogram print across store fronts and billboards, and on products including duffel bags, high-heeled shoes and trench coats in a bid to compete with logo-focused labels like LVMH flagship Louis Vuitton.

Since Tisci’s first runway show for the brand last fall, Burberry has been racing to get those products into stores as the new look sparked renewed interest on social networks like Instagram and China’s WeChat.

Sales in Mainland China rose in the mid-teen percentages during the quarter, outpacing analyst expectations, even as that country reported its slowest economic growth in almost three decades.

New Monogram

“The monogram has resonated very strongly with the Chinese,” Chief Financial Officer Julie Brown said in a call with reporters. “We’ve attracted more millennials with that range.”

The company maintained guidance for flat revenue as the faster growth from Tisci’s collections will help offset the impact of store closures. Burberry has been scaling back non-luxury and discount locations to cut exposure to struggling department stores and boost perception of the brand.

Burberry is the first European luxury company to report sales this quarter, and the strong report could boost prospects across the sector amid questions about the resilience of Chinese demand.

Policies including recent cuts to sales taxes and import duties have encouraged Chinese shoppers to rein in foreign shopping trips and instead spend at home. Yet Chinese tourists also boosted the company’s U.K. performance, Brown said, as shoppers sought out Tisci’s looks.

Burberry’s update “should reassure with a healthy uptick in mainland Chinese consumption,” MainFirst analyst John Guy said in a note. Results were better than expected across Asia, where protests in the key Hong Kong shopping hub were seen as a possible drag.

Tisci has breathed new life into the brand’s designs after growth stagnated at the end of previous designer Christopher Bailey’s tenure. Previously, Bailey helped increase Burberry’s revenues fivefold with his sleek, preppy take on British style.

Rihanna, Madonna

At Givenchy, Tisci forged alliances between the storied French couture house and pop-culture icons like Beyonce and Kim Kardashian. At Burberry, early adopters of his new look have included Rihanna, Madonna, and Irina Shayk—boosting the brand’s visibility online.

A year after Tisci’s arrival at Burberry, his revamped designs made up roughly half of products in stores by the end of the quarter, the company said.