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中國制造拯救了這家美國服裝品牌

中國制造拯救了這家美國服裝品牌

Jen Wieczner 2018-10-11
中國的時裝定制行業并不知名,但事情正在起變化。

拉飛逸148是紐約的一個時裝品牌,始于1996年曼哈頓中國城的一家工廠。幾年前由于美國的租金和其他成本猛漲,拉飛逸把生產移到了中國。拉飛逸148的CEO和聯合創始人德爾德雷·奎恩,周二在加州尼古湖市《財富》雜志舉辦的最具影響力的商界女性峰會上說,在紐約“我們就是沒法盈利”。

奎恩的合伙人,當初中國城工廠的房東Shun Yen Siu和Ida Siu,回到了她們的家鄉中國汕頭,并在那里建了新工廠。盡管搬廠之后成本顯著下降,但她們的運作卻更接近于按訂單制作的意大利時裝店,并沒有“中國制造”商標一般蘊含的廉價勞動力意味,奎恩補充說。

奎恩在一次初創企業創始人會議上提到:“人們一想到中國制造,就覺得‘唉, 不行,’但事實上中國制造不可思議。如果有人想去參觀一下,我真的會很自豪。”

汕頭工廠有多個樓層,每一層都有專業分工。奎恩說:“這一層樓是牛仔布,這一層是手工穿珠裝飾。我們實際在做的,就是為客戶定制。”

當然,拉飛逸148在紐約仍有基地:公司剛從Soho區的總部(拉飛逸街148號)搬到了布魯克林造船廠區的7萬平方英尺的巨大復式公寓里。(財富中文網)

譯者:宣峰

Lafayette 148, a New York-based clothing brand that started in a factory in Manhattan’s Chinatown in 1996, moved its manufacturing to China a few years ago, as rent and other costs skyrocketed in the U.S. “We just couldn’t be profitable” in New York, said Deirdre Quinn, co-founder and CEO of Lafayette 148, at Fortune’s Most Powerful Women Summit in Laguna Niguel, Calif., on Tuesday.

Quinn’s co-founders, Shun Yen Siu and Ida Siu—the proprietors of the original Chinatown plant—moved back to their hometown of Shantou, China, and built the new factory there. Although the relocation has cut the retailer’s costs significantly, the operations more closely resemble the made-to-order fashion houses of Italy than the cheap labor connotations of a “made in China” label, Quinn added.

“People think of manufacturing in China and they think ‘oh no,’ but really it is unbelievable,” Quinn said during a panel of startup founders at the conference. “I’m really proud when people want a tour of it.”

The Shantou factory has multiple floors, each focusing on different details of the clothing. “It is one floor for denim, one floor for hand beading and embellishments,” Quinn said. “What we’re really doing is customizing for our customer.”

Of course, Lafayette 148 still maintains a foothold in New York: It just moved its original headquarters in the Soho neighborhood (at 148 Lafayette St.) to a massive 70,000-square-foot loft in the Brooklyn Navy Yard.

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