社交媒體和自拍在重塑整容行業(yè)
去年科勒?卡戴珊曾對(duì)《Glamour》雜志表示:“我希望人們把填充劑視為更接近于化妝品的東西。我可以做面部輪廓整形……我做了豐唇術(shù),而且沒有人真的認(rèn)為這是瘋狂的舉動(dòng)。” 卡戴珊此言絕非空穴來風(fēng)(嗯,這樣說還不夠直截了當(dāng)——她接受《Glamour》雜志采訪的身份是Kybella代言人,這種頜下脂肪治療藥物已經(jīng)通過美國食品藥品監(jiān)督管理局(FDA)審批)。但拋開贊助內(nèi)容不談,她的觀點(diǎn)顯然得到了許多千禧一代的認(rèn)同。同時(shí),這已經(jīng)對(duì)整容行業(yè)產(chǎn)生了很大沖擊。 美國整形美容外科學(xué)會(huì)的數(shù)據(jù)顯示,2000-2016年整容手術(shù)的數(shù)量下降了6%,而微創(chuàng)整形手術(shù)的數(shù)量猛增了180%。 Kybella就屬于后者。它由艾爾健生產(chǎn),2015年獲得FDA批準(zhǔn),其有效成分脫氧膽酸在人體中發(fā)揮著溶解脂肪的作用。目前這種注射液僅用于頜下,宣傳廣告也將其稱為神奇的雙下巴終結(jié)者。但艾爾健打算把它用到面部以外的其他地方。據(jù)美國報(bào)紙《Star Tribune》報(bào)道,該公司正在人體的其他部分測(cè)試Kybella,包括“膝蓋贅肉”。 目前,對(duì)于任何可能引起麻煩的新趨勢(shì),人們立即會(huì)在社交媒體上予以批評(píng)。相對(duì)迅速的新整容手術(shù)的興起也不例外。整容醫(yī)生亞當(dāng)?洛克對(duì)《Star Tribune》表示:“自拍文化是采用Kybella等藥物進(jìn)行整容手術(shù)的巨大推動(dòng)力之一。” 不過,在這個(gè)問題上洛克說的也許有道理。“以前我們什么時(shí)候給自己拍過這么多照片?”他還說:“人們發(fā)現(xiàn)了讓自己更好看的角度,也不斷地想起那些困擾他們的缺陷……大家會(huì)看到越來越多的年輕人接受這樣的手術(shù)。” 為一種通過審批而且能增強(qiáng)信心、提高生活質(zhì)量的手術(shù)正名,卡戴珊的種種努力都是出于好意(盡管她這樣做是有報(bào)酬的)。但這并不意味著我們應(yīng)該像她呼吁的那樣把所有整形填充物都“視為化妝品”。和整容手術(shù)相比,Kybella的價(jià)格也許較低,風(fēng)險(xiǎn)也較小,但這并不是說它便宜或者沒有副作用(使用Kybella的普通手術(shù)費(fèi)用超過5000美元,而且有可能造成長(zhǎng)期神經(jīng)損傷,盡管這種情況較為罕見)。和慵懶貓眼妝不同,Kybella的作用不可逆轉(zhuǎn)。 還是在《Glamour》的這次采訪中,卡戴珊后來無意間透露了一次填充物整形失敗的經(jīng)歷:“我的朋友說的大概是‘你必須這樣做,這沒什么大不了的’等等,敢情我屬于有不良反應(yīng)的那1%,結(jié)果不得不把它全部溶解掉。” 這沒有生命危險(xiǎn),但也不怎么像化妝品。(財(cái)富中文網(wǎng)) 譯者:Charlie 審稿:夏林 |
“I wish injectables were treated more like makeup,” Khloe Kardashian told Glamour last year. “I'm allowed to contour my face...I'm overdrawing my lips, and nobody really says that's crazy.” Kardashian didn’t make this pronouncement in a vacuum. (Ok, that’s an understatement—she spoke to Glamour as a spokesperson for Kybella, an FDA-approved injectable for getting rid of unwanted chin fat.) But #sponcon aside, the sentiment is clearly shared by many of her fellow millennials. And it’s already having major implications for the cosmetic industry. From 2000 to 2016, the number of cosmetic surgical procedures fell by 6%, while cosmetic minimally invasive procedures rose a whopping 180%, according to the American Society of Plastic Surgeons. Kybella falls into the later category. Made by Allergan and approved by the FDA in 2015, the treatment is a synthetic version of deoxycholic acid, which the body uses to break down fat. For now, the liquid is exclusively injected under the jaw—it’s marketed as a miracle double-chin buster. But Allergan's ambitions for the drug extend beyond the face. According to the Star Tribune, the company is testing Kybella in other areas of the body, including the “fat above the knees.” By this point, the jerk reaction to any new and potentially troubling trend is to blame it on social media. The rise of new, relatively quick cosmetic procedures is no exception. “Selfie culture is a huge driver for procedures like Kybella,” Adam Lokeh, a plastic surgeon, told the Star Tribune. In this instance, however, the the man might have a point. “When in history have we taken so many photos of ourselves?” he continued. “People recognize the angles they look better in and they’re constantly reminded of the flaws that bother them…you’ll start seeing more and more young people getting treatments like this.” Kardashian's overall attempt to destigmatize a vetted procedure that can improve confidence and quality of life is well-intentioned (even if she was paid to do it). But that doesn't mean we should treat all injectables “l(fā)ike makeup,” as she urges. Kybella might be more affordable and less risky than surgical cosmetic options, but that doesn’t mean it’s cheap or side-effect free (a standard course of treatment runs costs more than $5,000 and, while rare, can lead to long-term nerve damage.) Unlike a sloppy cat-eye, the effects aren't reversible. Later on in that same Glamour interview, Kardashian casually recounts a filler treatment gone wrong: “My friend was like, ‘You have to, it's not a big deal.’ And so, of course, I was the 1 percent who didn't react well to it, so I had to dissolve it all.” Not life-threatening—but not much like makeup, either. |