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這家天然美妝品牌憑什么對la Mer發(fā)起了挑戰(zhàn)?

這家天然美妝品牌憑什么對la Mer發(fā)起了挑戰(zhàn)?

Brittany Shoot 2015年05月06日
真自然本草公司創(chuàng)始人希拉里?彼得森在患癌后,致力于研發(fā)一種安全有效的純天然護(hù)膚產(chǎn)品。在45天的實驗中,一群40歲以上的女性對比使用該品牌與la Mer的面霜。結(jié)果令人震驚,“真自然本草”幾乎在每項實驗檢測中都表現(xiàn)更優(yōu),如細(xì)紋和褶皺減少、收縮毛孔,緩和泛紅和發(fā)炎等。

????2014年,“真自然本草”還推出了少量完全不含化合物的固體香水。當(dāng)“真自然本草”團(tuán)隊和法國一家歷史最悠久的香水廠商談合作時,這家公司很想知道產(chǎn)品研發(fā)的預(yù)算是多少。但彼得森有一個更好的想法。

????她說:“我寧可這么問:假如什么高檔原料都能用的話,香水廠商會用什么?怎樣才算是大手筆預(yù)算?我們的目標(biāo)并不是提供奢侈化妝品,而是打造不含毒素、買得起的優(yōu)秀產(chǎn)品。” 彼得森透露說,由于沒有預(yù)算約束來決定選擇何種原料,這家廠商聲稱這項合作“純屬做夢”。

????除了“海藍(lán)之謎”,“真自然本草”在純天然美容產(chǎn)品中還有眾多競爭者。如Kari Gran,這是一個和創(chuàng)始人同名、2011年推出的生態(tài)友好型美妝品,現(xiàn)在已在絲芙蘭化妝品連鎖店上架。最近它剛宣布,2014年總收入達(dá)到50萬美元,同比增長200%。該公司聯(lián)合創(chuàng)始人兼產(chǎn)品同名人凱麗?戈藍(lán)一直努力治療一種自身免疫性疾病。像彼得森一樣,這種病也曾讓她中斷自己的職業(yè)生涯,并由此產(chǎn)生了打造一款全方位護(hù)膚產(chǎn)品的激情。

????隨便在環(huán)境工作組超過7萬種產(chǎn)品、名為“深度護(hù)膚”的化妝品數(shù)據(jù)庫里一搜,就能找出不少類似的由女性創(chuàng)立、純天然環(huán)保的護(hù)膚產(chǎn)品。

????“真自然本草”從未接受過投資,也沒有發(fā)布過收入數(shù)字。不過,通過網(wǎng)上直銷、并在全美選擇美容院和溫泉浴場進(jìn)行線下銷售等方式,這家公司獲得了一筆可觀的利潤。彼得森表示:“直銷是我們的主要銷售方式,大約占到80%到90%,我們也打算維持這一比例。”2015年,該公司將推出空氣清新劑和系列護(hù)發(fā)產(chǎn)品。

????彼得森指出:“事實證明,對你有利的東西往往也是奢侈品。你實際上不必選擇。”當(dāng)她費盡心機想推廣這種理念卻處處碰壁后,她就把目光轉(zhuǎn)向了歐洲國家。她說這些國家更重視預(yù)防原則——也就是在某件事成為既成事實前,就該防患于未然。而在美國,情況往往正好相反,那些大型化妝品公司并不想充當(dāng)生產(chǎn)更安全化妝品和護(hù)膚品的先驅(qū)。

????她說:“要研發(fā)出更安全產(chǎn)品的配方并非易事。但完全做得到。”(財富中文網(wǎng))

????譯者:清遠(yuǎn)

????審校:任文科

????In 2014, True Nature Botanicals also released a small line of solid fragrances made without any synthetic ingredients. When the TNB team sat down with one of the oldest fragrance houses in France, the perfumers wanted to know what the budget would be. Peterson had a better idea.

????“I would rather say: what would a perfumer use if she could use anything? What would be a luxurious budget?” Peterson asked. “Our goal is not just to offer luxury but to offer the very best products available without toxins.” Without budget constraints determining ingredient choice, Peterson says the perfumer called the collaboration “a dream.”

????Besides La Mer, True Nature Botanicals has competitors in the all-natural beauty products. For example, Kari Gran, an eponymous eco-friendly skincare line that launched in 2011 and is now stocked by Sephora, just announced 2014 year-end gross revenue of $500,000, a 200% YOY increase. The company’s co-founder and namesake, Kari Gran, battled an autoimmune disorder that, like Peterson, gave her the same pause and passion to create a holistic skincare solution.

????Even a simple search on the Environmental Working Group’s Skin Deep cosmetics database of more than 70,000 products brings up a handful of similar all-natural, woman-founded, environmentally conscious skincare lines.

????True Nature Botanicals has never accepted investor funding and doesn’t release revenue numbers. But the company makes a tidy profit by focusing on selling direct to consumers online and through select partner salons and spas around the country. “Eighty to ninety percent of our business is direct, and we plan to maintain that ratio,” says Peterson. In 2015, the company will launch room mist and hair care product lines.

????“It turns out what’s good for you is also luxurious. You don’t have to choose,” Peterson notes. When she’s frustrated trying to get her message across, she looks to European countries, where she says there’s more respect for the precautionary principle—the idea that until something has been tested, it should be avoided. In the U.S., the opposite is often true, and major beauty companies aren’t going to be the ones leading the charge for safer cosmetics and skincare products.

????“It’s not easy to formulate safer products,” she says. “But it’s doable.”

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