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Juicy Couture希望借中國(guó)東山再起

Juicy Couture希望借中國(guó)東山再起

Phil Wahba 2014年07月10日
Juicy Couture幾年前一度大紅大紫,最終卻因?yàn)檫^(guò)度擴(kuò)張,迅速失寵,在美國(guó)本土落得關(guān)門(mén)大吉的下場(chǎng)。如今,它計(jì)劃轉(zhuǎn)戰(zhàn)中國(guó)市場(chǎng),希望能為東山再起積累經(jīng)驗(yàn)。

????時(shí)尚品牌Juicy Couture曾經(jīng)因?yàn)樘焖奶禊Z絨材質(zhì)運(yùn)動(dòng)服備受知名人士喜愛(ài)而名噪一時(shí)。然而,這個(gè)品牌最近表示,將于今年夏季關(guān)閉美國(guó)境內(nèi)的所有店鋪,在此期間重塑品牌形象。

????Juicy Couture在重新規(guī)劃自己在美國(guó)本土業(yè)務(wù)的同時(shí),將目光牢牢對(duì)準(zhǔn)了時(shí)尚行業(yè)的新樂(lè)土:中國(guó)。

????本周二,Juicy Couture母公司Authentic Brands Group宣布,已經(jīng)與中國(guó)品牌管理公司俊思集團(tuán)(ImagineX Group)簽訂了長(zhǎng)期合作協(xié)議。Authentic Brands Group最先于2006年買(mǎi)下了Juicy Couture在大中華區(qū)和東南亞地區(qū)管理經(jīng)銷(xiāo)權(quán)。它目前的想法是,通過(guò)增設(shè)40家門(mén)店以及擴(kuò)充產(chǎn)品系列,進(jìn)一步擴(kuò)大Juicy Couture品牌在中國(guó)的發(fā)展。

????Authentic Brands Group和俊思集團(tuán)簽訂的新協(xié)議最短期限為十年,在協(xié)議期終止后,可再續(xù)簽兩個(gè)十年期的協(xié)議。除Juicy Couture外,俊思集團(tuán)還在與Salvatore Ferragamo和Marc Jacobs品牌合作。目前,俊思集團(tuán)將嘗試在大型商場(chǎng)之外開(kāi)設(shè)Juicy Couture門(mén)店,并將于明年新上線由Steve Madden公司制作的一個(gè)鞋履系列。最后,俊思集團(tuán)計(jì)劃在未來(lái)幾年之內(nèi),在傳統(tǒng)商業(yè)區(qū)以外,開(kāi)設(shè)獨(dú)立的Juicy Couture門(mén)店。(在中國(guó),許多歐美品牌都是從百貨商場(chǎng)的店面發(fā)展起來(lái)的。)

????Juicy在美國(guó)得到了大量的慘痛教訓(xùn),在中國(guó)區(qū)的發(fā)展過(guò)程中,Juicy需要引以為戒,以避免像在美國(guó)一樣,因決策失誤而導(dǎo)致品牌迅速喪失時(shí)尚度。【Juicy將在今年秋季回歸美國(guó),在科爾士百貨公司(Kohl's)銷(xiāo)售。而品牌早期是在Nordstrom和Bloomingdale這類(lèi)奢侈品百貨商場(chǎng)銷(xiāo)售的——可見(jiàn)已經(jīng)今非昔比。】

????Authentic Brands公司從Kate Spade公司(前身為Fifth & Pacific Cos,再之前為L(zhǎng)iz Claiborne)手中以1.95億美元的價(jià)格買(mǎi)下了奄奄一息的Juicy Couture。這家公司認(rèn)為,這個(gè)品牌仍有希望起死回生。在勢(shì)頭急轉(zhuǎn)而下之前,Juicy Couture曾在2008年的巔峰期創(chuàng)下了年銷(xiāo)售額6.05億美元的佳績(jī)(主要為美國(guó)本土銷(xiāo)售)。

????然而,公司開(kāi)設(shè)連鎖店的速度過(guò)快,尤其是門(mén)店——本以為這會(huì)帶來(lái)極大成功,結(jié)果卻一敗涂地。隨著各大店鋪的開(kāi)張,Juicy很快變得滿大街都是,再加上商標(biāo)俗艷不堪,消費(fèi)者逐漸喪失了興趣。

????Juicy計(jì)劃于2015年初回歸美國(guó)市場(chǎng)開(kāi)設(shè)店鋪,并在未來(lái)5年內(nèi),在紐約、洛杉磯等大型城市,以及溫哥華等海外中心城市共開(kāi)設(shè)127家店鋪。因此,中國(guó)區(qū)的擴(kuò)張情況將對(duì)它下一步的計(jì)劃具有啟發(fā)性意義。(財(cái)富中文網(wǎng))

????譯者:朱毓芬/汪皓

????Juicy Couture, the once-hot brand known for its velour track suits favored by celebrities, recently said it would close all of its U.S. stores this summer while it goes off to re-invent itself.

????But while it rethinks its U.S. business, it has its eyes fully trained on fashion’s new promised land: China.

????Authentic Brands Group, Juicy Couture’s owner, on Tuesday announced a long-term partnership with ImagineX Group, a China-based brand management company, that first bought the management and distribution rights of Juicy Couture for Greater China and South East Asia in 2006. The idea is to deepen the brand’s reach into China by getting it into another 40 locations and expanding the brand’s assortment.

????The two parties’ new arrangement will have a minimum term of 10 years with an option to extend it for two more 10-year terms. ImagineX, which works also works with brands like Salvatore Ferragamo, and Marc Jacobs, will now try to bring the brand to locations beyond shopping malls. It will also add a new Juicy footwear collection produced by Steve Madden next year. Finally, it plans to open Juicy Couture freestanding stores in the coming years. (Many Western brands start off in China with sections inside department stores.)

????As it builds out in China, Juicy will have plenty of painful U.S. lessons it can draw from to avoid making the mistakes that drained its fashion cred stateside. (Juicy will return to U.S. stores this fall when it is sold in Kohl’s , a far cry from the luxury department stores such as Nordstrom and Bloomingdale’s it used to be available in its early years.)

????Authentic Brands bought the struggling brand from the company now known as Kate Spade (and before that Fifth & Pacific Cos, and before that Liz Claiborne) for $195 million, reasoning that there was life yet left in Juicy Couture, a brand that at its peak in 2008 had annual sales of $605 million (primarily U.S. sales.) before going into free-fall.

????But the brand built out its own chain of stores too quickly, including the kiss of death, outlets, and flamed out, with customers turned off by its ubiquity, its use of garish logos.

????How the China expansion goes will be instructive for Juicy. It is planning to return to the U.S. with its stores that would be part of a fleet of 127 stores it will build globally in the next 5 years in major cities like New York City and Los Angeles and abroad in centers like Vancouver by early 2015.

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