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機芯供應危機引發瑞士手表業地震

機芯供應危機引發瑞士手表業地震

Lynnley Browning 2013-11-15
斯沃琪集團幾乎壟斷了精密機械機芯和其他部件的制造和銷售。然而最近,瑞士競爭委員會的一紙裁定宣布,斯沃琪有權削減出售給其他競爭對手的關鍵零部件數量,直至完全停止供應。這項裁決震動了擁有數百年歷史、價值數十億美元的瑞士手表業。

????一些大型制表商已經變得警覺起來。

????隸屬于法國奢侈品巨頭路易威登集團( LVMH Moet Hennessy Louis Vuitton)的豪雅手表公司(Tag Heuer)正在瑞士汝拉州金佛內區建設一家零部件生產廠。此外,它也開始使用日本精工株式會社(Seiko,瑞士制表商的競爭對手之一)生產的零部件。

????據圣人集團副總裁法林透露,為了構建自己的零部件生產廠,擁有波美名士(Baume et Mercier)、卡地亞(Cartier)和伯爵(Piaget)等品牌的瑞士奢侈品巨頭歷峰集團(Richemont Group),正在投入數額不菲的研發資金。此外,該公司近些年來一直在收購小型零部件供應商。

????“歷峰集團的手表機芯基本上實現了自給自足,”該公司一位發言人表示。“斯沃琪集團是我們公司的重要商業伙伴,我們的關系非常良好。我們并不認為,近期宣布的這項裁定將對歷峰集團的業務產生任何影響。”

????與此同時,Delance公司的掌門人魯弗則憂心如焚。“小公司將很難生存下去,”她說。“這樣的前景非常糟糕,因為這些公司恰恰是瑞士手表的創意靈感之源。”(財富中文網)

????譯者:葉寒?????

????Some large watchmakers have paid attention.

????Tag Heuer, part of French luxury group LVMH Moet Hennessy Louis Vuitton, is building a parts plant in Chevenez. It has also begun using parts from Seiko, a Japanese rival to Swiss makers.

????Richemont Group, a giant Swiss luxury conglomerate with brands like Baume et Mercier, Cartier, and Piaget, is pouring money into research and development to create its own parts-manufacturing plants and has been buying up tiny parts suppliers in recent years, Farin said.

????"Richemont is largely self-sufficient in terms of watch movements," a company spokesman said. "The Group enjoys an excellent relationship with Swatch, which is an important business partner. We do not anticipate that the recently announced ruling will have any impact on Richemont's businesses."

????Delance's Rufer, meanwhile, is worried. "The small companies will find it very difficult to survive," she said. "That is very bad because the creativity is in their hands."????

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