????直到過(guò)去十年，菲爾森還一直是個(gè)行動(dòng)比較緩慢的企業(yè)。它在1914年就推出了旗下最暢銷(xiāo)的巡航夾克。但直到上世紀(jì)50年代才推出了鞋類(lèi)，180年代才推出了包類(lèi)產(chǎn)品，而這些基本就是它的全部看家寶貝了，而情況一直到2005年才有所改觀。在柯克到任之前，這家公司的首席執(zhí)行官是道格?威廉姆斯，他是拉夫勞倫公司（Polo Ralph Lauren）的前任高管。2005年，洛杉磯的Brentwood Associates私募基金公司收購(gòu)了菲爾森公司，作出了這項(xiàng)任命。這真是一種奇怪的組合方式，用《財(cái)富》雜志（Fortune）的話來(lái)說(shuō)就是“這就好比凱迪拉克（Cadillac）的高管去掌管約翰?迪爾公司（John Deere，美國(guó)著名農(nóng)業(yè)機(jī)械企業(yè)——譯注）一樣?！比ツ?，這家公司推出了一系列女性服裝，還開(kāi)始進(jìn)行多方合作，一方面和李維斯（Levi’s）合作，另一方面和一家日本設(shè)計(jì)公司合作。

????柯克正著手終止這些合作?！拔覀儸F(xiàn)在采用的方式是：和設(shè)計(jì)關(guān)系不大，更多是和產(chǎn)品開(kāi)發(fā)有關(guān)。”我問(wèn)他這是什么意思，并提到了根據(jù)功能來(lái)形成設(shè)計(jì)創(chuàng)意，他馬上回答說(shuō)：“對(duì)，就是這個(gè)意思，”同時(shí)開(kāi)始描述“圍繞這些標(biāo)志性產(chǎn)品打造金字塔的計(jì)劃。拿公文包來(lái)說(shuō)——我們正在增加一款采用彈道尼龍的產(chǎn)品，它使用經(jīng)過(guò)優(yōu)化的瑞士拉鏈——Riri牌，絕對(duì)堪稱拉鏈中的保時(shí)捷——這個(gè)品牌對(duì)拉鏈的每個(gè)鏈齒都精工細(xì)作，讓它滑爽得像黃油一樣。當(dāng)我們想到戶外、狩獵和釣魚(yú)領(lǐng)域里的菲爾森時(shí)，我們就會(huì)發(fā)現(xiàn)它和愛(ài)馬仕（Hermes）的諸多相通之處。它們都有150多年歷史，都是從制造馬鞍起家，生產(chǎn)同樣功能的產(chǎn)品，而且只有幾種顏色和樣式。柏金包（Birkin）還是柏金包，而且終生保修。它就是個(gè)傳家寶。”菲爾森的包也是終生保修，消費(fèi)者只需把包送回菲爾森公司即可獲得維修服務(wù)，而且這家公司70%的產(chǎn)品都是在西雅圖的同一個(gè)工廠制造的；但是菲爾森的包價(jià)格只有柏金包的1/35（后者價(jià)格不等，但均價(jià)約為7,000美元，菲爾森則僅售200美元），而且也不存在要等上六年才能買(mǎi)到一個(gè)的情況。

????新掌門(mén)來(lái)到菲爾森后的最大變化就是推出了“西雅圖系列”服裝，這是一種更修長(zhǎng)，更適合城市居民的城市風(fēng)格服裝。而這家公司的傳統(tǒng)風(fēng)格現(xiàn)在被稱為“阿拉斯加系列”。柯克最擔(dān)心的是，這些變化會(huì)不會(huì)疏遠(yuǎn)那些忠誠(chéng)顧客。他說(shuō)：“我們覺(jué)得自己似乎為這兩類(lèi)客戶都打開(kāi)了通道，同時(shí)又不讓他們?nèi)魏我环接X(jué)得不滿?！边@兩個(gè)系列的名字是對(duì)公司歷史的明智致敬，而且顯然更偏愛(ài)其中一個(gè)群體。畢竟，當(dāng)那些純爺們兒紛紛奔赴北方淘金時(shí)，C.C.菲爾森自己卻留在城里發(fā)了財(cái)?，F(xiàn)在，他創(chuàng)立的這家公司已經(jīng)找到了路子來(lái)同時(shí)為這兩個(gè)群體服務(wù)。（財(cái)富中文網(wǎng)）

????譯者：清遠(yuǎn)???

????Until the last decade, Filson was a very slow-moving company indeed. It introduced its best selling cruiser jacket in 1914. Footwear came in the 1950s, bags in the 1980s, and that was pretty much it, until 2005. Before Kirk, Doug Williams, a former Polo Ralph Lauren executive, was the CEO. This was after a private-equity firm based in Los Angeles named Brentwood Associates bought Filson in 2005. It was an odd coupling, "a little like finding out that John Deere was being taken over by a Cadillac executive," as Fortune described it. The company launched a line of women's wear last year and embarked on a few collaborations, one with Levi's, and another with a Japanese designer.

????Kirk is ending those collaborations. "The approach we're taking is: It's less about design. It's really about product development." When I asked him what he meant by this, and brought up the idea form following function, he said, "Yes, yes that's it exactly," and began describing plans to build "pyramids around each of these iconic items. Take the briefcase -- we're adding a style with ballistic nylon, and an improved Swiss zipper -- Riri, the Porsche of zippers, really -- they tumble every tooth so it zips smooth as butter. When when we think of Filson in the outdoor and hunting and fishing world, we see similarities to Hermes. They're 150 years old, started as a saddle maker, they make products in the same facilities, in just a few colors, with a few patterns. The Birkin bag is still a Birkin bag. And it's repairable for life. It's an heirloom." Filson bags are also repairable for life, all one needs to do is send it back to Filson, and 70% of the company's product is made in a factory in Seattle; but Filson's bags are about 1/35 the cost of a Birkin (which range considerably but average about $7,000, compared to a $200 Filson), and there is not a six-year waiting list for one.

????The biggest change to Filson under its new CEO is the introduction of "The Seattle Fit," a slimmer, more urban cut of clothing for the more urban set. The traditional cut is now known as "The Alaska Fit." Kirk's greatest concern with all change is the possibility of alienating that loyal customer. "We feel as if we've opened the funnel to both without upsetting either," he says. The names of the two categories are a clever nod to the company's history, and tellingly favor one group more than the other. After all, in the beginning, real men ventured into the North seeking fortune, while C.C. Filson stayed back in the city and made his own. Now the company he built has figured a way to serve both customers.