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理性至上的時尚新貴:Trina Turk

理性至上的時尚新貴:Trina Turk

《財富》 2013-03-01
創立服裝品牌Trina Turk時,設計師特里娜?特克并沒有一個商業規劃,但卻在激烈的市場競爭中站穩了腳跟,還在紐約時裝周舉行了首場發布會。近日她接受《財富》采訪,暢談了沒有商業規劃、直接創立服裝品牌的利與弊。

????2月10日,時裝設計師特里娜?特克在紐約時裝周(New York Fashion Week)舉辦了首場發布秀。她說,考慮到自己的服裝品牌是在1995年創立的,從品牌創立到舉辦發布秀,中間隔著相對較長的時間。但是這對特克來說恰到好處,她并不急著進軍時裝周。

????特克把加州人特有的冷靜態度帶到了時裝界。她說自己所有的設計靈感都來自黃金州。經過17年的打拼,她不僅在美國各地開設了時裝店,還把服裝賣給了不計其數的批發商。特克還在擴張自己的品牌,使公司的經營范圍橫跨從寢具到iPhone保護套的多個品類。但這并不意味著她會為了籌備時裝周而開夜車,或者將員工逼得太緊。

????特克在接受《財富》采訪時暢談了沒有商業規劃、直接創立服裝品牌的利與弊,以及如何在竟爭慘烈的行業中保持沉穩。

????問:你的名字是整個品牌的主心骨。你的時尚理念是什么?

????答:我走到這一步并不是為了做新一代先鋒時尚設計師。我關心的是女性和她們在生活中的切實需求,因為我自己也是女性。我覺得好看的、討人喜歡的東西并不一定非得是那種5,000美元的奢侈品。

????抱著這樣的理念,你如何物色富有創意的設計師?

????這是一個漸進的過程。就在八年前,所有的事情都還是我一個人包攬,不管是畫圖還是設計。我慢慢組建起自己的設計團隊,讓所有的成員都知道,我并不是那么喜歡浮夸的設計,也不喜歡褶皺和蝴蝶結。久而久之,他們領悟了這樣的美學思想。

????跟任何一位設計師開始合作,都勢必要經歷一個磨合的過程。我還沒有遇到過哪個設計師從一開始合作就能完全了解你的理念。或許有這樣的人,只不過我還沒有找到。

????你也給別的公司效力過。以前為別的設計師工作,現在創立了自己的品牌,你如何轉換自己的角色?

????老實說,我沒有做任何商業規劃就直接放手去干了。而且我也不知道自己何去何從。原本存了一小筆錢可供急用。那時,我每天都得工作很長時間,而且是一個人單干。我經常開車,載著布匹四處轉悠,然后把它們卸下來。這種事情我再也做不來了,真的是太瘋狂了。

????Fashion designer Trina Turk held her first show at New York Fashion Week on February 10. Given that she launched her own clothing line in 1995, that's a relatively long time without having a show at the event, she says. But that's just as well for Turk. She didn't feel the need to jump into that pool so quickly.

????Turk brings a California-cool attitude to fashion. All her designs are inspired by the Golden State, she claims. After 17 years, she has boutiques all over the country and also sells her clothing to numerous wholesalers. Turk is also expanding her brand to encompass everything from bedding to iPhone cases. But that doesn't mean that she's going to pull an all-nighter at Fashion Week or create a bummer of a work environment.

????Turk talks to Fortune about the pros and cons of launching a line without a business plan and how to stay low-drama in a cutthroat industry.

????Q: Your name is the backbone of the whole brand. What is your fashion philosophy?

????A:I'm not really here to be the next avant-garde fashion designer. I'm thinking about women and their practical concerns in their lives, because that's who I am. I think that something can be beautiful and flattering without being $5,000.

????How do you get creative designer-types on board with that?

????It's been this evolution. Up until eight years ago, I sketched and designed every single thing myself. And I slowly built a design team that understands that I don't really like fussy; I don't like little ruffles and bows. Over time, they learned the aesthetic.

????When you first start off with any designer, there's a learning curve. I've yet to have anybody start and immediately understand what we're trying to do here. Maybe that person is out there, but I haven't found them yet.

????And you've been there. How did you switch from working for other designers to starting your own line?

????You know, honestly, I never wrote a business plan. I just started. And I had no idea what I was getting myself into. I had a small amount of money from my own savings. I worked really long days, and it was just me. I was driving around with rolls of fabric in my car and dropping them off. I could never do it again, it was incredibly insane.

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