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“瘋狂”的男裝

“瘋狂”的男裝

Kurt Wagner 2013-02-04
從小愛針線活的維沙爾與莫希特?麥瓦尼表兄弟緊盯愛趕時髦的職場新丁,從電影里找設計靈感,自己設計所有服裝。去年,高盛一名員工在郵件里向同事們推薦了兄弟倆的產品,當天他們就接到了70份新訂單,全部來自這家銀行的員工。公司借此一舉打開了局面。創業必須做愛做的事。

????維沙爾與莫希特?麥瓦尼表兄弟有意向你兜售他們制作的一套西裝,你會買嗎?兩人新成立的服裝公司Combatant Gentlemen誕生于經濟衰退期間,目標群體是可支配收入有限,但是愛出風頭的年輕商業人士。公司CEO維沙爾認為,理想中“好斗的紳士”應該“喜歡派對,自命不凡,而且在公司里擁有獨立的辦公隔間。”Combat Gent提供的產品從襯衣到褲子和領帶,應有盡有。單件商品價格不超過40美元。上周,公司推出了第一款西裝,起賣價為160美元。

????這家位于洛杉磯的公司只有三名員工,目前還沒有任何投資者,但它早期的成功卻非常引人注目,甚至令人難以置信。Combat Gent網站每月約有14,000名用戶,每天處理90個訂單。自去年五月成立以來,公司每月銷售額以25%的速度增長,12月份總銷售額更是首次突破100,000美元。維沙爾表示,一月份的銷售成績甚至更好。

????表兄弟兩人已經擁有了許多熱情的支持者。Combat Gent是時尚科技加速器(Fashion Technology Accelerator)項目選定的六家公司之一。該導師項目引以為豪的是著名的顧問,如樂斯菲斯(North Face)創始人道格拉斯?湯普金斯、金寶貝(Gymboree)創始人瓊?巴恩斯和扎珀斯公司(Zappos )扎珀斯實驗室(Zappos Labs)主任威爾?楊恩。該項目普通合伙人及投資人恩里科?貝爾特拉米尼表示,在200多個申請者中,Combat Gent是項目的首選,很大程度上是因為,它的創始團隊非常適合其針對目標客戶確立的商業模式。

????之所以創建這樣一家公司是因為,28歲的維沙爾和26的莫希特發現,自己的朋友們在大學畢業后經常買不起一套職業服裝。兩人對時裝的興趣由來已久。他們小時候就曾在洛杉磯和拉斯維加斯由其父母經營的范思哲(Versace)時裝店打工。麥瓦尼家族在美國西海岸一度擁有13家服裝店。維沙爾回憶稱,兩人的童年多是在縫制衣服,和與父輩分析織物結構,而不是像其他同齡人一樣玩球。

????而兩人在零售業的經歷也幫助Combat Gent得以迅速發展。為了節省成本,維沙爾負責設計所有服裝, 并在內部制作樣品。(服裝的設計靈感來自美國家庭影院(HBO)電影《我家也有大明星》(Entourage)中的阿里?高爾。阿里?高爾是一位雖然有些神經質,但穿著非常考究的好萊塢經紀人。)目前,公司堅持提供全年都能穿的服裝,以免造成季節性壓貨或銷量下滑。小時候,兩人曾跟隨父輩拜訪歐洲和亞洲的制造商。這些關系得到很好的維護,與中國制造商的關系則意味著公司可以以更低的成本進行生產,并減少浪費。莫希特說:“從某些方面來說,我們其實是在走父輩的老路。”

????當然,要想在男裝行業立足并不容易。在Combat Gent針對的年齡段,大部分份額已經被JoS. A Bank、H&M和Men's Warehouse等競爭對手占領。2011年,僅Men's Warehouse一家的銷售額便達到24億美元。不過維沙爾相信,Combat Gent可以提供比高端服裝店價格更低的服裝,卻又不會讓購物者把它與低端折扣店聯系在一起。因此,未來肯定能在男裝市場占據一席之地。目前,Combat Gent僅采用電子商務模式。據數字營銷咨詢公司eMarketer統計,2012年服裝及相關配件在線銷售額總計達到409億美元。去年秋天,高盛(Goldman Sachs)一位員工在郵件中發送了Combat Gent的網址,成為公司的決定性時刻。維沙爾說道,在當天結束營業時,網站共收到70多筆與這家投資銀行有關的新訂單。

????Cousins Vishaal and Mohit Melwani want to sell you a suit. Born out of the recession, the duo's new clothing company—Combatant Gentlemen—targets young, brash businessmen who are nonetheless short on disposable income. An ideal combatant gentleman is one that "likes to party, thinks he's hot stuff, but still has a cubicle," says Vishaal, the CEO. The Combat Gent line offers everything from shirts to pants and ties. No single item cost more than $40. This week, the company unveiled its first line of suits with prices starting at $160.

????With only three employees and no investors to date, the Los Angeles-based company's early success has been noteworthy if somewhat unlikely. The Combat Gent website has gotten nearly 14,000 users per month and processes some 90 orders per day. Since its founding last May, the company has seen a 25% growth in sales each month, topping $100,000 in sales for the first time in December. Totals were even higher in January, says Vishaal.

????The Melwani cousins have found some avid supporters. Combat Gent was one of six companies selected for the Fashion Technology Accelerator program, a mentor program that boasts advisors like Douglas Tompkins, founder of North Face, Joan Barnes, founder of Gymboree, and Will Young, the director of Zappos Labs at Zappos (AMZN). The program's General Partner and angel investor Enrico Beltramini said that Combat Gent was the accelerator's number one choice out of more than 200 applicants, in part because the founding team fits the very same mold they've established for their target customers.

????The idea for the company started when Vishaal, 28, and Mohit, 26, witnessed their friends struggle to finance a professional wardrobe following college. Their interest in fashion dates further back. As children, the Melwani boys worked in Versace boutiques their parents ran in both LA and Las Vegas. At one point the family owned 13 boutiques on the West Coast. The boys grew up sewing clothes and analyzing fabric patterns with their dads—not throwing the ball around, says Vishaal.

????Their retail background has paid off in getting Combat Gent off the ground. Vishaal designs all of the clothes, making samples in-house to curb costs. (Inspiration comes from Ari Gold, the neurotic, yet well dressed Hollywood agent from HBO's Entourage.) For now, the company is sticking to clothes that can be worn year-round to avoid seasonal overstock or sales slumps. As children, the boys traveled with their fathers to visit manufacturers across Europe and Asia. Those relationships have been maintained, and connections with Chinese manufacturers have meant cheaper production costs and less waste. "Both of us are kind of reliving our dads' footsteps in certain ways," says Mohit.

????Of course, breaking into the men's clothing industry won't be easy. Competitors—JoS. A Bank, H&M, and Men's Warehouse to name a few—have already captured significant business from men in Combat Gent's target age group. Men's Warehouse alone reported sales of $2.4 billion in 2011. But Vishaal believes that Combat Gent can find a place for itself by providing lower cost clothes than high-end boutiques without the stigma some shoppers associate with low-end discount stores. Combat Gent is taking an e-commerce only approach. Online apparel and accessory sales totaled $40.9 billion in 2012, according to eMarketer. A small moment of affirmation came last fall when a Goldman Sachs employee passed around the Combat Gent site in an email chain. By the end of the day, the site had received more than 70 new orders tied to the investment bank, says Vishaal.

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