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拉爾夫?勞倫海外擴張

拉爾夫?勞倫海外擴張

Anne VanderMey 2012-10-29
拉爾夫?勞倫最初只是一個移民油漆工的兒子創立的品牌,如今卻已經發展成為美國生活方式的代名詞和美國品牌的一個代表。現在,這家美式風格的公司快速走向全球市場,特別是在中國,拉爾夫?勞倫已新開了數家高端精品店。

????有些經典永不過時,拉爾夫?勞倫(Ralph Lauren)的出色業績就是明證。拉爾夫?勞倫2012財政年度實現銷售額69億美元,比競爭對手、Tommy Hilfiger品牌擁有者PVH Corp.高出10億美元,是博柏利(Burberry)去年收入的兩倍。這一預科生風格的服飾巨頭是業內增長最穩定的公司之一,僅次于擁有North Face品牌的VF Corp.。去年,VF的銷售額增長了23%;拉爾夫?勞倫增長了21%,而且過去15年中有14年都在增長。快速的國際擴張(包括在中國內地新開了幾家高端門店以迎合奢侈品市場的需求),可能是將公司推上增長高速路的原因:摩根士丹利(Morgan Stanley)分析師們預計海外銷售將給其增加25億美元的收入。這家美國風格的服飾公司正在尋求建立全球市場領導地位,并同時保持高貴的品質,法寶有三。

好的理念

????拉爾夫?勞倫的董事長兼首席執行官拉爾夫?勞倫(出生時名字是拉爾夫?利夫希茨)是紐約市布朗克斯區一位移民油漆工的兒子,他一手塑造了理想的美國上層社會時尚典范,1967年時推出的一系列Polo品牌領帶是他的成名作。他的風格背后有一個故事,它就是了不起的蓋茨比。“拉夫率先踐行了基于生活方式的品牌理念,”麥格理(Macquarie)分析師利茲?唐恩表示。今年夏天有報道稱,(拉爾夫?勞倫贊助的)美國奧運代表團服裝是中國制造時,美國奧林匹克委員會表示支持拉爾夫?勞倫。

不斷的品牌細分

????拉爾夫?勞倫通過品牌細分迎合所有價位的消費者。最高端:紫標系列的雙排扣羊毛開衫,售價3,000美元。最低端:Chaps品牌服飾和居家用品。一些品牌引發了近乎狂熱的品牌熱愛。這些被稱為“Lo Head”的狂熱追隨者成百成百地搜集自上世紀80年代以來的Polo品牌和拉爾夫?勞倫服飾,包括領帶、襯衫和夾克等。

精明的擴張

????過去十年,拉爾夫?勞倫加強了對品牌的海外市場控制,購回了在日本和韓國的品牌許可以及在中國的分銷權。

世界最受贊賞公司排名:47

公司總部:紐約

員工數量:26,000

業務范圍:設計、分銷和出售服裝、配飾和居家裝飾,擁有Polo、Club Monaco、Chaps和Rugby等20多個品牌

????譯者:早稻米

????There are some classics that never go out of style -- Ralph Lauren (RL) has the earnings to prove it. The $6.9 billion that it made in fiscal 2012 outstrips by $1 billion what competitors such as PVH Corp. (PVH) (which owns Tommy Hilfiger) hauled in and is twice what Burberry made last year. The preppy-apparel giant is one of the industry's most consistent performers, second only to the VF Corp. (VFC), which owns North Face, in steady growth. VF increased its revenue 23% last year; revenue at Ralph Lauren went up 21% -- and has grown in 14 of the past 15 years. Smart international expansion -- including opening several higher-end stores in China to court the luxury market -- may tee up the company for a growth spurt: Analysts at Morgan Stanley say it stands to add $2.5 billion to its revenue with overseas sales. Three ways the American fashion house is seeking global domination while keeping it classy.

A good yarn

????Chairman and CEO Ralph Lauren (born Ralph Lifshitz), the Bronx-born son of an immigrant housepainter, has riffed on an idealized American upper crust, starting with a line of Polo-branded ties in 1967. His style has a story, and the story is Gatsbyesque. "Lauren pioneered the concept of lifestyle branding," says Liz Dunn, an analyst at Macquarie. The U.S. Olympic Committee stood by the company this summer following news that athletes' outfits had been made in China.

Endless labels

????The company ingratiates itself with consumers at every price point by slicing its image many ways. At the top: $3,000 double-breasted cardigan sweaters from the Purple Label. At the bottom: Chaps brand clothing and home goods. Some brands inspire cultish devotion. Enthusiasts called 'Lo Heads collect Polo and Ralph Lauren gear -- ties, shirts, and jackets by the hundreds -- from the 1980s.

Savvy expansion

????In the past decade Ralph Lauren gained more control of its brand positioning overseas, buying back licenses in Japan and South Korea and distribution rights in China.

World's Most Admired Rank:47

Headquarters:New York

Employees:26,000

The business:Designs, distributes, and sells apparel, home décor, and accessories through more than 20 brands -- including Polo, Club Monaco, Chaps, and Rugby.

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