????吉列市場(chǎng)份額減少的另外一個(gè)原因，是復(fù)古剃須刀的興起。男士刊物一直提倡讀者，拿出爺爺輩使用的老式剃須刀來(lái)用。老式剃須刀只用一個(gè)刀片，并且價(jià)格低廉。男士博客“男性藝術(shù)”（The Art of Manliness）創(chuàng)始人布雷特?麥凱就在用上世紀(jì)60年代爺爺用過(guò)的舒適牌安全剃須刀，他表示：“首先，用直形剃刀刮胡子，讓你看起來(lái)充滿(mǎn)男人味。其次，老式剃須刀更有價(jià)值。你買(mǎi)一個(gè)剃須刀，只要保持鋒利就可以了，不必再買(mǎi)什么刀頭。”

????當(dāng)然，復(fù)古剃須刀沒(méi)有可靠的市場(chǎng)份額數(shù)據(jù)，但《GQ》雜志、《時(shí)尚先生》雜志（Esquire）和《Details》雜志都介紹了該類(lèi)產(chǎn)品，而且，在線論壇 Badger & Blade上有超過(guò)45,000名會(huì)員，每天都會(huì)發(fā)帖討論用一個(gè)世紀(jì)以前的剃須刀刮胡子的話題。

????此外，新競(jìng)爭(zhēng)對(duì)手也在逐步侵蝕吉列的市場(chǎng)份額。最近，一家訂閱服務(wù)網(wǎng)站“一美元剃須刀俱樂(lè)部”（Dollar Shave Club）橫空出世，該網(wǎng)站向郵購(gòu)替代刀片的用戶(hù)每月最低只收取1美元。從凱鵬華盈（Kleiner Perkins）和安德森?霍洛維茨等硅谷風(fēng)投那里獲得100萬(wàn)美元投資后，今年3月份，一美元剃須刀俱樂(lè)部在YouTube上發(fā)布了一則有趣的廣告，對(duì)吉列代言人、網(wǎng)壇天王費(fèi)德勒進(jìn)行抨擊。但該網(wǎng)站的聯(lián)合創(chuàng)始人、33歲的麥克?杜賓卻表示，他們并不希望如同挑戰(zhàn)巨人歌利亞的大衛(wèi)一般，與吉列鬧到不死不休。不過(guò)他說(shuō)道：“那些大公司是否做好了接受抨擊的準(zhǔn)備？答案是肯定的。”麥克?杜賓曾在美國(guó)國(guó)家廣播公司（NBC）任職，去年，他在洛杉磯一個(gè)數(shù)字創(chuàng)業(yè)孵化器內(nèi)創(chuàng)辦了Dollar Shave Club。

????吉列廣告把價(jià)值關(guān)注（一個(gè)刀頭可使用五周）和高級(jí)剃須刀頭混為一談，是否會(huì)有風(fēng)險(xiǎn)？這一點(diǎn)當(dāng)然會(huì)存在。但吉列在研發(fā)上投入了數(shù)十億美元，而且每年投入數(shù)百萬(wàn)美元研究用戶(hù)行為，所以，這一品牌有足夠的理由在行業(yè)中占得先機(jī)。布萊恩特大學(xué)教授邁克爾?羅伯托表示：“以前，我們快速丟棄刀片的文化，讓吉列受益匪淺，而現(xiàn)在，他們又告訴消費(fèi)者，我們不必那么快就替換刀片。直覺(jué)告訴我，這家公司非常清楚他們正在做什么。”

????譯者：阿龍/汪皓

????Gillette's market share losses also come as it battles a retro razor craze. Men's publications have urged readers to pull out their grandfather's old razors, which use a single, inexpensive razor blade. "First off, shaving with straight razors makes you seem like a badass," says Brett McKay, who founded men's blog The Art of Manliness and shaves with his grandfather's 1960s Schick safety razor. "But second, it's a better value. You buy a razor once, you keep it sharp, and you never have to buy cartridges again."

????Reliable market share numbers don't exist for retro shavers, but not only have GQ, Esquire, and Details featured the products, more than 45,000 members of the online forum Badger & Blade post daily about shaving with century-old razors.

????New competitors have also tried to chip away at Gillette. The upstart subscription service Dollar Shave Club charges as little as $1 a month for mail-order replacement blades. After winning $1 million in venture capital from Silicon Valley hotshots like Kleiner Perkins and Andreessen Horowitz, Dollar Shave grabbed national headlines with its amusing YouTube ad in March that takes a swipe at Gillette spokesman Roger Federer. Co-founder Mike Dubin, 33, doesn't want to encourage a David vs. Goliath story. But the former NBC page who started Dollar Shave Club last year in a Los Angeles digital incubator does say, "Are the big guys ripe for taking a couple potshots at? Yeah."

????Does Gillette risk mixing messages by emphasizing value (one cartridge last five weeks!) with premium razors? Of course. But between the billions it spent on R&D and the millions it spends each year studying consumer behavior, the brand should come out ahead. "They benefited from a culture where we were pretty quick to dispose blades, now they're saying we don't have to," Bryant University professor Michael Roberto says. "My gut says these folks know what they're doing."